Tag Archives: salt marsh

Getting there is half the fun, Chesapeake!

Wide beaches of Jekyll Island, GA.

Getting to Chesapeake Bay has turned out to take a bit longer than I anticipated, but that’s OK. It all about the journey. We are having a great time. We left Stuart, Florida on August 8, 2025 and today we are on our way to Coinjock, North Carolina. We have traveled about 800 miles and have just over 100 more to arrive at our destination, Chesapeake Bay. Last time I blogged, Finito was docked at Amelia Island and our puppy Diesel had become “the mayor.”

Finito docked along the marshes near Sunbury Crab Company, Sunbury, GA.

Since Amelia Island, we have stopped at Jekyll Island, GA; Sunbury, GA; Isle of Hope, GA; Daufuskie Island, SC;  Hilton Head, SC; Beaufort, SC; Charleston, SC; Georgetown, SC; Myrtle Beach, SC; Southport, NC; Swanboro, NC; Beaufort, NC; Oriental, NC; and Bellhaven, NC.

If I had to choose running themes they would be: salt marshes, wide beaches, historic churches, buzzing cicadas, and a reverberating wake from Sherman’s “March to the Sea.” Thankfully many of the ancient oak trees still stand and much of the Deep South today is bustling.

Ed walks Diesel under an ancient oak, Isle of Hope/Beaufort, SC.
Debra Green sells beautiful Mount Pleasant Gullah hand woven sweetgrass baskets..
Historic Marker, Daufuskie Island lies right before Hilton Head.
Daufuskie Island, SC.
St. Helena’s Anglican Church, built in 1724, Charleston, SC.

The waters here are alive. Winds, tides and strong currents push through extensive marshes — many, once rice paddies tended by slaves.

Certainly, in specific areas of Georgia and South and North Carolina, there is water contamination, mostly from industry. But unlike the St. Lucie River/ Indian River Lagoon, a combination of tides and marshes regularly cleanses.

Here, one finds massive estuaries and important bird migratory flyways such as Port Royal Sound between Hilton Head and Beaufort, SC;  and the Neuse River near Oriental, SC. – which is at its mouth is one of the widest rivers in the United States.

It hasn’t been all Intracoastal or river: From Charleston to Georgetown, Ed insisted on going “outside” in the Atlantic Ocean due to shallow readings inland. I agreed, so long as I could see land and know which way to swim in case Finito stared sinking. Along the way, Okee barfed, but other than that, the wave action wasn’t too bad.

Towns and cities have  included old fishing villages, former plantations lands,  and incredible historic cities that now attract tourists and modern industries. In fact, many, especially the young, are moving this way. For instance, my niece Evie and her boyfriend Clay live and work in Mount Pleasant/Charleston, South Carolina. They love it there and it was so wonderful to see them and meet their rescue dog, Tiki.

Great American Egret in marsh, Charleston, NC.
Finito is a 55 ” Fleming with a 5″draft. Sunbury, GA.

Some estuaries are enormous. Port Royal Sound, mentioned above, lies between Hilton Head and Beaufort, South Carolina and is one of the largest estuaries on the Southeast Coast of the United States. Its salt marshes are key.

According to a Prichard’s Island Research & Living Shores Coalition sign, South Carolina has more salt marsh than any other state on the Atlantic Coast. Half the salt marsh on the east coast is in South Carolina and half of that lies in Beaufort County at Port Royal Sound. Of course, salt marshes serve as nurseries and habitat for numerous species- an entire food chain. Unfortunately, our Indian River Lagoon has seen up to an 85% reduction in salt marsh coverage.

Ed and I with my neice Evie Flaugh and her boyfriend Clay who we visited in Mount Pleasant, part of Charleston.
Ed and Diesel in front of the South Carolina Society, established 1737. Charleston, SC.
Diesel took his first horse drawn carriage tour in Charleston, SC.

As one would imagine, boating requires more attention in these waters!  Charts can’t alway reflect sudden movements of sand. A couple of days ago, while cruising in the Intracoastal Waterway, Finito ran aground in Bogue Sound between Swansboro  and Beaufort, NC. Before that, near Southport, we navigated the Cape Fear River and today on our way to Coinjock it will be Albemarle Sound– a body of water that was as rough as an angry ocean last time we went through while on America’s Great Loop.

So before I close,  are you curious? 🙂

In case you are, here’s my running aground in Bogue Sound story

Finito has a five foot draft——

~It was an extremely windy, sunny, gorgeous day and though in the channel, Ed and I sat in the pilot house and watched as Finito’s depth finder slowly went from 12  to 7 feet. And then to 4.2 feet in what seemed a matter of seconds. We had just been discussing how wind could exacerbate the shallowness and we were watching and holding our breath. But when it happens, you still can’t believe it!

Our conversation went something like this:

Yikes!
Bogue Sound, NC and surrounding waters, on our way to Beaufort, NC.

“Isn’t North Carolina where we got caught in the current on the Loop that time and humiliatingly smacked the dock losing a few fenders in front of all those people?” I inquired.

Ed was not amused as tried to assess the situation.

“Beaufort!” he barked.

“Beaufort, again! We’re on our way there now. I can’t believe it!”

I walked to the stern listening  to the engines as Ed unsuccessfully tried to back out. I hollered: “You know sometimes when you try to force things you make them worse!”

Ed ignored me and kept doing the exact same thing.

I stuck my head in the pilot house. “I’m putting Okee in the bedroom.”  I said. “This could get hairy! “I could hear Diesel’s loud barking.“Be sure to keep the doors closed so Diesel doesn’t jump overboard!”

In high stress situations, Okee is taken  to the bedroom.
Ed waits for Sea Tow in Bogue Sound, NC.

Nice young men helped off off the shoal.

My job was once off to let loose their lines.

As I carried Okee I could hear Ed on the phone with Sea Tow. He matter-a- factly gave coordinates. After I placed Okee on the bed I regrouped and tried to be a good first mate clearing the decks.

Sea Tow arrived, I noticed they never asked any questions, they just helped. This is what Ed always says he wishes I would do. I thought about this. And then, once again, I couldn’t help myself.

“Captian Ed, would you please ask  the men if there are more sandbars along the way?”

Ed stared at me and there was silence until I heard a young kind southern voice: “It’s deepest near the red channel markers ma’am…”

“So we should steer left. Thank you so much,” I said shooting  Ed my most charming glance.

Ed looked at me sternly, then smiled. Getting there is half the fun, isn’t it?  We were underway —leaning port side—- to Beaufort and then Oriental…

Shrimp boats, Oriental, NC
Blue Crabs! https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/species/blue-crab
Ed tires a local “dragon drink “in Oriental, NC.
Diesel is always comic relief.

Next time I write, we’ll be in Chesapeake Bay!

Diesel with the Captain…

 

 

 

 

 

 

Human Eradication of Mosquitoes, San Francisco, and the Destruction of the Indian River Lagoon

Mosquitos were a great nuisance to early pioneers and were often swarming by the thousands. (Public internet photo, 2014)
Mosquitos were a great nuisance to early Florida pioneers, often swarming by the thousands. Mosquito impoundments  created to control their breeding have destroyed over 40,000 acres of important salt marsh habitat along the IRL. (Public internet photo, 2014.)

So there Ed and I were, in San Francisco, for my 50th birthday, and although we had a fantastic trip, everything I looked at that had to do with water, I saw through my “Indian River Lagoon” muck colored sunglasses…

Map showing former tidal marsh area of San Francisco Bay; restored marsh; and beach with water quality warning., (Photos Thurlow-Lippisch, 2014.)

Photos: Water quality sign San Francisco Bay; restored tidal marsh at Chrissy Field; map showing former natural tidal marsh area of San Francisco Bay compared to today.”  (Photos Thurlow-Lippisch, 2014.)

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On our first day, we decided to rent bicycles and ride over the Golden Gate Bridge as my sister Jenny and her husband Mike had recently done the same. It was great fun, and once I got my legs moving, we first explored a nearby area that is being restored and redeveloped around Chrissy Air Field.

There were educational signs discussing the importance of salt marsh habitat and a map showing how much marsh had been lost in the development of the San Francisco Bay area. The main focus was on the “restored” marsh in front of us that had been a dump for the military and filled in with sediment  from the bottom of the bay.

From the 1800s through around 1960 marshes were considered “unhealthy.”  But in time it was realized that marshes contributed greatly to environmental health and were critical for good water quality, wildlife habitat, and linked to clean drinking water.

Reading the signs I said to Ed: “Wow! Look Ed,  see that NOTICE sign for the bay’s water quality and bacteria levels.? Just like home!” Ed smirked, more interested in the old airfield that still took up a good portion of Chrissy Marsh.

So we rode our bikes over the Golden Gate Bridge and as I was struggling to breathe and not collide with on coming bicyclists, I thought about salt marshes in my own home town, and how they were destroyed not by a dump, filled in to become an air field, but mostly by mosquito impoundments.

Ed and my bicycle ride over the Golden Gate Bridge, 2014.

Ed and my bicycle ride over the Golden Gate Bridge, 2014.

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Before and after the turn of the 19th century, Florida was full of mosquitos and even in the 1960s when I was living in Stuart, they were ferocious. I remember being at the bus stop in in middle school and running in place the entire time so they couldn’t bite my legs. There were positives as well, like the social event of riding my bike with my friends behind the mosquito truck with its billowing cloud of pesticide spray that came to visit every few evenings during the summer. 🙂

Today it is well accepted in scientific circles that the most extensive impacts of Florida’s salt marshes have been associated with mosquito control programs which continue to be in great demand  in Florida today. Some of the highest densities of  mosquitoes ever recorded in the continental US occurred right here in south Florida before mosquito control.

To alleviate this issue and encourage development in Florida, salt marsh impoundments were constructed as a government management technique to decrease mosquito populations by continually flooding impounded areas of marsh. Around 1930, thousands acres of wetland marshes along the Indian River Lagoon were flooded to keep misquotes from hatching as salt marsh mosquitoes lay their eggs just above the edge of the water level in these areas. By flooding the impounded marshes, mosquito managers could flood the impoundments and drown the eggs.

Smithsonian/IRL: (http://www.sms.si.edu/IRLSpec/Impoundments.htm)

Today there are 192 impoundments along Florida’s east coast. A large percentage of these impoundments are in IRL as the IRL takes up 40 % of Florida’s east coast.  These impoundments  are separated from the lagoon by dikes built  around a designated area so it can be filled with water via a pump systems. Over 40,000 acres…

mosquito

Filling these areas with water has had a  huge ramifications on wildlife in the lagoon as the dikes cut off juvenile fish and other critters from their needed protective mangrove/seagrass areas and habitat. Over time, this habit disconnect and loss has led to the extinction the dusky seaside sparrow in the 1987 and much lower and less healthy fish populations.

Also, in some cases the impoundments did not work, or were not well managed, and became breeding grounds for mosquitoes. Drowned native vegetation suffered, especially noticeable is the loss of the giant black mangroves, whose breathing, tubular root systems were drowned killing these ancient trees and leaving them as sentinels of death within the system.

Things have gotten better. As the destruction of salt marshlands and the negative effects on the IRL became more apparent, in the 1980s and 90s some mosquito managers started altering their practices by managing chosen sites with the RIM or “Rotational Impoundment Management Plan.” The RIM program is a seasonal rather than yearly control method, promotes flushing of impounded areas, uses fewer pesticides, focuses on water quality improvements and the promotes restoration of native vegetation.

These improved management strategies have helped lessen the isolation of fish species from their habitat; have allotted benefits to animals,  trees, and vegetation; and improved water quality for tiny and important marsh critters, the base of the food chain.  Nonetheless, the “tidal  exchanges” of the impoundments are limited and not what nature intended.

While fighting for the IRL, we must remember to fight on all fronts and continued improvements of mosquito impoundments should not  be forgotten!

So in conclusion, I loved visiting California. There were too many people but great beautiful, protected National Parks.

I am really enjoying  being home, especially in my own bed. And right away,  on the first night back, I had a wildlife visitor welcoming me home, the familiar sound in the darkness of a mosquito buzzing around my ear!

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IFAS/UF/ Mosquito Management/RIM: (http://fmel.ifas.ufl.edu/marsh/05_strategies.shtml)

Florida Gulf Coast University/Florida Coastal Salt Marshes: (http://library.fgcu.edu/caloo/csaltm.pdf)