Tag Archives: Finito

Chesapeake or bust!

Finito — Chesapeake or bust!

The water has called once again and Ed and I are underway. This time our trawler journey will be to Chesapeake Bay. We have new puppy, Diesel, as we lost our beloved Belgium Shepard, Luna, last year while we were on America’s Great Loop. Okee, our beautiful 17 pound cat, will be making the trip too.

After our Great Loop adventure it was wonderful to return to Stuart, but boating has become a bit of a calling especially now that we are retired. We chose Chesapeake Bay because while passing through on the Loop we loved it most and decided to return. The Chesapeake Bay is the largest estuary in the United States, its watershed extends into states of Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New York and our federal capital, Washington D.C. Just magnificent!

Watershed of Chesapeake Bay, Wiki.

While on the Loop I read James A. Michener’s CHESAPEAKE, and Ed and I enjoyed talking about the estuary’s long documented history and the spectacular wildlife. In fact the huge, loud, honking, close-nit Canada Geese, widely featured throughout the novel, became the symbol of our Loop journey. And then of course, Chesapeake Bay is a poster child for climate change and a leader in restoration attempts that predate National Estuary Programs such as our  Indian River Lagoon. Chesapeake has much to teach about improving our impaired waters and the power of cooperation.

Canada Geese were sacred to the native people of the Chesapeake Bay area as survival depended on their coming. Later the European setters with new technology almost hunted them to extinction, but they have “miraculously” recovered.

To get to Chesapeake Bay Finito is traveling north along  the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. This waterway is a combination of natural and man-made features and in Florida dates back to the 1800s. The Indian River Lagoon is connected through the Haulover Canal to the Mosquito Lagoon that is connected to the Halifax River. Following is  the Matanzas River in St. Augustine where the water is the prettiest yet with massive currents and powerful tides flushing from the inlet. There is even coral life on the dock with sponges, and small brightly colored fish swimming around!

This water can also be dangerous. I dreaded docking this time recalling an experience when our boat got caught in strong currents and almost crashed into someone’s very large yacht. It happened in a second. The current takes you. A total loss of control. Ed and I stood open mouthed aware that with much luck we slammed against a piling and were able to avoid disaster. We made it just fine this time!

Power plant near Titusville on the Indian River Lagoon.
NASA’s Vehicle Assembly Building rises along the IRL.
Dolphins love Finito’s wake! NASA’s Assembly Building behind them.
Haulover Canal connecting the Indian River Lagoon to the Mosquito Lagoon. I saw many ospreys, pelicans, and an alligator. Reports have seagrass returning. Manatees in the upper IRL in the recent years died from starvation.
Bridge over Haulover Canal connecting IRL to the Mosquito Lagoon.
Water at entrance of Mosquito Lagoon looking algae like.

From Stuart to Titusville I thought the waters of the Indian River Lagoon looked mostly milky and dark. We are told by the water management districts that seagrass is retuning, maybe so, but we have to do better. Even the undeveloped Mosquito Lagoon, part of the Canaveral National Seashore, looked greenish as you can see in the photo above. This cannot be good water quality.

Along the way we visited Cocoa Village one of my favorite historic places along the Indian River. It is the state headquarters of the Florida Historic Society, a place my mother and father visited many times. Cocoa Village also has the bragging rights to S.F. Travis one of the oldest hardware stores in Florida! Its historic marker gives great insight into changes along the lagoon.

Florida Historical Society, Cocoa Village, FL
S.F. Travis Company is one of the oldest hardware store in Florida.
Historic sign
front
back

We also stopped in Vero where there is an absolutely incredible 5 acre dog park! Diesel made many friends although he did get nipped at once. The irritating, jumping, puppy thing! He is doing well on Finito so far, trying to help Ed with the lines and sometimes torturing Okee with his endless energy.

Diesel on Finito. He does not go on this pad. Prefers a walk to real grass!
Diesel helping with lines – head set — AI via Ed!

Okee? For now she is wearing her pheromone stress reliever collar and reading Chesapeake. 

Okee – not happy yet…
Ponce Inlet is a beautiful spot
Incredible wind blown oaks are everywhere. Homes are nestled within — most saving the trees.
At Ponce Inlet Diesel walked to the beach! Very happy to stretch his short legs!!! Note sand renourishement piled very high.
The Atlantic is rising…

Ponce Inlet just north of New Smyrna Beach is another gem with a maritime forest of windswept oaks and pretty sand dunes. Diesel enjoyed a walk to the beach and watching the “frozen” rabbits but once to the Atlantic he could only look– no dogs allowed!  The beach was piled with sand.

Beach renourishment requires millions of dollars each year, only to be taken out to sea. Barrier islands are meant to work like a conveyor belt turning over on themselves, migrating over time. Development and beach renourishment interfere with this very powerful natural process. Guess who will win?

So — so far we after leaving Stuart, we have visited Vero, Cocoa Village, Ponce Inlet, and St. Augustine. Watching the sun set on this old city, I was reminded that the only constant is change.

The oldest city in America, beautiful St. Augustine.
St. Augustine coquina to stucco!
The old streets of St. Augustine have centuries of  tales to tell…

 

 

 

 

13 days in on America’s Great Loop

American Great Loop Cruisers Association

Ed and I are 13 days in on America’s Great Loop. 300 miles of 5600. I have stopped wearing makeup. I’ve worn the same clothes for at least 10 days. I’ve taken three showers. I’ve washed my hair twice. I’ve gotten pretty good at “manning” the lines and pulling up or putting down the giant fenders. I’m sleeping better than I ever recall. So far, it’s been an absolutely amazing and challenging trip.

I am the first mate. That means that I have to do what the captain, my husband Ed, tells me to. This is challenging. And we have had a few heated discussions. We have with us our 12 year old Belgium Shepherd, Luna, and our 3 year old cat, Okee. They are great company and Okee is definitely now a therapy cat.

Ed resting with Luna & Luna
We use headphones when docking. They are called “marriage savers.” Fernandina, Amelia Island.

This boat trip is supposed to last about one year. Ed retired, and I was not reconfirmed by the Senate for the South Florida Water Management District governing board, nor reappointed by the Governor. Thus, this long journey seemed a perfect thing to do. Time for Ed and I to spend some quality time together. As we all know, “time is of the essence.”

So far, our trip has been Stuart to Vero, Vero to Titusville, Titusville to Ponce Inlet, Ponce Inlet to Saint Augustine, Saint Augustine to Fernandina, Fernandina to Jekyll Island, Jekyll Island to Sunbury, and Sunbury to Isle of Hope. Today we are headed to Beaufort, South Carolina,  hopefully, weather is to arrive and last for two or three days.

“Wow these crab traps are close together aren’t they?” Sorry we’re approaching Savannah. We just went past Thunderbolt Marina and these crab traps are like, oh my gosh, they’re like you have to weave through them!

The wildlife has been wonderful. My favorite so far are the white pelicans sitting marsh side in groups of 25 or so. They have the second largest wingspan of any bird in North America 9-10 feet. Only the California Condor’s is larger.

White Pelicans have been in Florida, Georgia and South Carolina.

The trees too have also been an inspiration. Oaks, slash pines, red cedar, and magnolia. Their births holding the rings of hundreds of years. I look up into their highest branches ridiculously trying to capture their spirt within the rectangle of my iPhone.

I’ve been trying to learn about water issues and I have. Most in Georgia are caused by industrial point source pollution and none have been as tragic as the 100 year destruction of the St. Lucie River. Discharges from Lake Okeechobee should be considered point source pollution too.

The serpentine waterways of north Florida and especially Georgia have been just mind boggling . The tide is like a slow breath through the marsh purifying and renewing the ecosystem – oysters, crabs, frogs, alligators, mink, otter and many species of fish. The highest tidal range has been 8 feet!

Lover’s Oak, Brunswick, GA. Over 300 years old 🌳
Slash pines, Sunbury.

I’m hoping that this peregrination teaches me something about myself, my marriage, and the history and environmental issues of our great country. Then when I return home, I know I will be renewed.

But I am paying attention.

I noticed yesterday that Governor DeSantis came to a Cove Road Walgreens to sign off on a shoplifting legislative bill with harsher penalties for those who steal. I was surprised he didn’t also mention Martin County’s recent “Lost Spring” due to discharges from Lake Okeechobee. That was stealing too. While I’m on the subject, there was not a peep from Senator Gayle Harrell, or Representatives Overdorf or Snyder about the Lake O discharges either. I suppose Tallahassee leadership has asked that “we just not talk about it.” God forbid…

Sunbury, Georgia.
Marsh
“Captain”
1700s chapel, Isle of Hope.

 

The Dolphins are Jumping but no False Hope!

Ed and I just got off a seven day journey on “Finito.” We traveled along the Indian River Lagoon from Stuart to Cape Canaveral and only turned around due to a fuel leak that was heroically  brought to our attention our eighty pound Belgium Shepherd, Luna.

Luna although a bit crippled walked to the front  to bark and alert us to the smell of gas in the salon. Ed and I were upstairs in the pilot house.

The Lagoon has been through hell the past decade, especially in regards to algae blooms that began around 2010 and peaked in 2013. Over 90 percent of seagrasses in the 156 mile lagoon died off in those and the following years and FWC still reports issues including fish kills. I believe that the lagoon is improving in spite of continued difficulties. Just the past few days the water quality the length of the lagoon looked appealing and there were dolphins jumping in our wake the entire trip!  Dozens of them, all along the way! These clever animals will always find a fish, in spite of crappy water, but nonetheless, their presence was inspiring.

Even though this was to be the “retirement cruise,” I couldn’t help myself from zooming into a Rivers Coalition meeting on October 26 and was impressed that for the second time in row since I was ditched by the Senate, South Florida Water Management District executive staff and a governing board member drove all the way from West Palm Beach to attend the meeting. Obviously this is done for their self preservation, but still!

The subject of the meeting was “Sending Water South,” and basically the theme, in line with my last blog post, was that the the high water in Water Conservation Areas south of Lake Okeechobee makes sending water south right now “impossible.” Staff said they were draining the WCAs now, the Storm Water Treatment Areas are restored, and they hope to send Lake Okeechobee water south in December. Of course no one mentions this bottleneck is caused by the Everglades Agricultural Area….

I found this possibility about sending water south in December misleading. In fact, it was False hope. Sure there is always a possibility that things will not turn out as science plans, but we should recognize science nonetheless. Especially as the District is based on science has its own scientific weather bureau that is so respected the ACOE relies on its data!

Two days prior to the Rivers Coalition meeting the District hosted a Water Resource Form. During this forum the high probability of above average rainfall December 2023 through February 2024 over the sixteen county South Florida Water Management District was noted. This is due to a weather condition known as El Nino. So back to the Rivers Coalition meeting, what if as science is revealing, we do not have a dry season and it rains  over the Water Conservation Areas? Hmmm? Then the SFWMD  probably wont be able to send water south in December, or January or February and tree islands and fur-bearing animals will continue to suffer as will we. This may have been mentioned in passing but it was not discussed.

Lake Okeechobee is discharged east and west when determined too high by the ACOE.

I rather be prepared for something that may happen than have my government spoon feed me false hope gliding over serious issues. A scientific agency has the responsibility to share science not hope.

ACOE Periodic Scientist Call 10-31-23

TCPalm Article by Ed Killer