Tag Archives: America’s Great Loop

Larger Deeper Waters, Day 33 of America’s Great Loop 🇺🇸

It’s early morning and mirror-like water flows underneath our trawler “Finito.” It is hard to tell where the water stops and where the sky begins. Chesapeake Bay stretches out before us. It is enormous. Today is our 33rd day of 365. I am first mate on our journey, America’s Great Loop.

Chesapeake Bay is the largest estuary in the United States, 200 miles long-30 miles wide at max.

So far this morning I have awoken to warmly dress, check the lines, study the current, and review the tides and weather. I’m happy. It’s going to be a beautiful day.

Standing on the floating dock next to laughing gulls and a tall blue heron, Captain Ed and I say farewell to new Looper friends and push off from Yorktown Marina, Virginia. Ed actually complements me on my performance.

Chesapeake Bay is renowned for its conservation efforts, but continues to struggle to meet targets -the majority not met caused by agriculture. Nonetheless, in the York River a tributary of the Chesapeake, the dock area was full of families and children swimming, minnows and bird life, growing grasses and fans.

“Thanks, but all of the conditions were in our favor,” I reply.

Only a few days ago we had left Beaufort, North Carolina, a perfect time capsule of a town, and overwhelmed by strong current, barely avoided collision and lost a couple of fenders as we scraped our way forward. Half the community, dockhands, and many tourist looked on wide-eyed as Ed and I lost control of Finito within seconds. With our hearts pounding, Captain Ed and I straddled the Intracoastal markers spaced for cargo ships and barges and continued on our way into the deep Newport River that made the St. Lucie look like a creek.

“Junction Buoy” Intracoastal Waterway, Newport River, NC

There was no anger nor blame. In fact we were completely silent. Mother Nature had beaten us both even though we had been analyzing her for days…

Humbled before Nature – she tempered us.

The waterways have gotten larger and deeper and more unpredictable. Since I last wrote we have traveled from Beaufort NC to River Dunes; River Dunes to Belhaven; Belhaven to Coinjock; Coinjock to Norfolk; and Norfolk to Yorktown VA.

Waiting and passing through the Great Bridge Locks on the old Albemarle-Chesapeake Canal caused Ed and me reflect on the hardships of soldiers who fought in the Revolutionary War, their battlefield nearby.  A complete wilderness, not much different today, but for tugs pushing barges. Not far from here lies the Dismal Swamp where thousands of escaped slaves found shelter during the Civil War.

Slowly, we had entered the Pamlico and the Pungo Rivers, next, Albermarte Sound. Rough and windy weather had overtaken us and always the optimist I worried the hull would burst open. Ed rolled his eyes and carefully came off the fly bridge into the pilot house as waves crashed over the boat. I put on my life jacket.

“I hope we don’t lose an engine,” I thought rejudging my size as I moved about the cabin. Okee and Luna were sitting up straight. They were doing well but confused by the pounding. After about two hours, it passed…

Norfolk, Virginia, the world’s largest naval base lie before us. Warships and aircraft carriers lined the Elizabeth River. Ed skillfully made his way giving way. I stood on the bow awe struck.

Touring the Battleship Wisconsin, Norfolk, VA.
Passing cargo ship, Chesapeake Bay.

From Norfolk we traveled to Yorktown, part of America’s historic triangle along with Jamestown and Willamsburg. We could see the monument from afar, beckoning. Slowly Lady Justice came into view as we entered port. What an experience it would be to step upon the hallowed ground where America gained her independence. 🇺🇸

Captain Ed stands reading the Yorktown Victory Monument commemorating the 1781 victory and alliance with France that brought about an end to the American Revolutionary War.
A discussion with Commander in Chief , General George Washington; Major General Lafayette, Continental Army; Lieutenant General Rochambeau, French Army; and Admiral de Grasse, French Navy.
Tuna for Okee and Luna! Such great fur-babies and so brave!

The making of a 1st-mate, Day 23 of America’s Great Loop

It is day 23 of at least 365 on America’s Great Loop. At this  point, with bruised arms and sore elbows, I am a bonafide first-mate and have learned to take orders. Every day, I assist my captain. I check diesel levels, I peer intently through binoculars looking for Intracoastal triangles, announce distant shoaling, man the lines, drop the fenders, and sometimes even take the wheel.  I have accepted my fate ~ I am not in charge.

Checking diesel levels for my captain.

However, Captian Ed and I have re-bonded through my acceptance of this simple but profound concept, one I never did accept  in the 20 years of our marriage. I’ve decided it’s OK for now. 🙂

Life has changed. Every day chores like doing laundry, fixing a leaky sink, or vacuuming have become endearing. Kind of like being in college again. Serious decisions have given way to listening and discussion. We are becoming a team. How long this new peace-pact will last, I am not certain. But on our 55 foot trawler, “Finito,”we live day by day; it’s slow and beautiful.

Happy at Myrtle Beach Yacht Club after successfully backing into a slip.

Doing laundry, Hilton Head, SC.

The low country of the Carolina coast is defined by marshlands and the American history of the Deep South. These marshes fed the riches of cotton, indigo and rice plantations. The Gullah culture of former slaves resonates, though the area is now covered with golf courses and subdivisions.

Emancipation Oak, southern states, Beaufort, SC.

The marshes themselves are habitat to hundreds of aquatic organisms, birds, and animal species. Connected to countless river estuaries, they are the nursery to the sea. Polluted stormwater, groundwater contamination, and developmental habitat destruction have negatively affected some areas. To the untrained eye, like mine, it looks relatively healthy. Of course, turn of the century dredging of the Intracoastal Waterway created our “Great Loop” roadway.

The American Great Loopers Cruisers Association shows the path of the “great loop.”

Marshland, Beaufort, SC.

Fantastic Waccanaw River osprey nests! 

A house along the marsh, Georgetown, SC.

Since my last post Ed and I have traveled from Hilton Head to Port Royal; Port Royal to Charleston; Charleston to Georgetown; Georgetown to Myrtle Beach; Myrtle Beach to Southport; Southport to Wrightsville; and Wrightsville to Swansboro.

My uncle reminded me that my Henderson ancestors traveled up North Carolina’s Cape Fear River where they settled near Campbelton, the same Scottish settlement name as the town they’d left in the 1770s. I picture them taking a ferry through the reed filled marshes, or a cypress black river, the tides washing away the hardships of the old-world and bringing hope for life anew.

Boro Low County Kitchen, Cape Fear River, Swansboro, NC.

13 days in on America’s Great Loop

American Great Loop Cruisers Association

Ed and I are 13 days in on America’s Great Loop. 300 miles of 5600. I have stopped wearing makeup. I’ve worn the same clothes for at least 10 days. I’ve taken three showers. I’ve washed my hair twice. I’ve gotten pretty good at “manning” the lines and pulling up or putting down the giant fenders. I’m sleeping better than I ever recall. So far, it’s been an absolutely amazing and challenging trip.

I am the first mate. That means that I have to do what the captain, my husband Ed, tells me to. This is challenging. And we have had a few heated discussions. We have with us our 12 year old Belgium Shepherd, Luna, and our 3 year old cat, Okee. They are great company and Okee is definitely now a therapy cat.

Ed resting with Luna & Luna
We use headphones when docking. They are called “marriage savers.” Fernandina, Amelia Island.

This boat trip is supposed to last about one year. Ed retired, and I was not reconfirmed by the Senate for the South Florida Water Management District governing board, nor reappointed by the Governor. Thus, this long journey seemed a perfect thing to do. Time for Ed and I to spend some quality time together. As we all know, “time is of the essence.”

So far, our trip has been Stuart to Vero, Vero to Titusville, Titusville to Ponce Inlet, Ponce Inlet to Saint Augustine, Saint Augustine to Fernandina, Fernandina to Jekyll Island, Jekyll Island to Sunbury, and Sunbury to Isle of Hope. Today we are headed to Beaufort, South Carolina,  hopefully, weather is to arrive and last for two or three days.

“Wow these crab traps are close together aren’t they?” Sorry we’re approaching Savannah. We just went past Thunderbolt Marina and these crab traps are like, oh my gosh, they’re like you have to weave through them!

The wildlife has been wonderful. My favorite so far are the white pelicans sitting marsh side in groups of 25 or so. They have the second largest wingspan of any bird in North America 9-10 feet. Only the California Condor’s is larger.

White Pelicans have been in Florida, Georgia and South Carolina.

The trees too have also been an inspiration. Oaks, slash pines, red cedar, and magnolia. Their births holding the rings of hundreds of years. I look up into their highest branches ridiculously trying to capture their spirt within the rectangle of my iPhone.

I’ve been trying to learn about water issues and I have. Most in Georgia are caused by industrial point source pollution and none have been as tragic as the 100 year destruction of the St. Lucie River. Discharges from Lake Okeechobee should be considered point source pollution too.

The serpentine waterways of north Florida and especially Georgia have been just mind boggling . The tide is like a slow breath through the marsh purifying and renewing the ecosystem – oysters, crabs, frogs, alligators, mink, otter and many species of fish. The highest tidal range has been 8 feet!

Lover’s Oak, Brunswick, GA. Over 300 years old 🌳
Slash pines, Sunbury.

I’m hoping that this peregrination teaches me something about myself, my marriage, and the history and environmental issues of our great country. Then when I return home, I know I will be renewed.

But I am paying attention.

I noticed yesterday that Governor DeSantis came to a Cove Road Walgreens to sign off on a shoplifting legislative bill with harsher penalties for those who steal. I was surprised he didn’t also mention Martin County’s recent “Lost Spring” due to discharges from Lake Okeechobee. That was stealing too. While I’m on the subject, there was not a peep from Senator Gayle Harrell, or Representatives Overdorf or Snyder about the Lake O discharges either. I suppose Tallahassee leadership has asked that “we just not talk about it.” God forbid…

Sunbury, Georgia.
Marsh
“Captain”
1700s chapel, Isle of Hope.