Tag Archives: Great Loop

Friends and Family visit on Beautiful Lake Michigan, America’s Great Loop

~Lake Michigan is 307 miles long, up to 118 miles wide, and up to 923 feet deep!

Finito approaching Chicago at the southwestern end of Lake Michigan.

There is only one thing more fun than boating the 6000 miles of America’s Great Loop – having friends and family visit along the way! We are now on day 166 and Ed and I have been fortunate to have the our dear friends the Kuhnes, the Joneses, and the Flaughs visit Finito at different point along the hundreds of miles of Lake Michigan. So much fun!

Lake Michigan is an incredible body of fresh water, like an ocean. There were days when we had to stay in harbor because the waves were as high as ten feet! Many ships have gone down in Lake Michigan. You might recall Gordon Lightfoot’s 1976 ballad “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald.”

This huge great lake has had its ups and downs with water quality and right now she is probably as close to beautiful as she has ever appeared in modern times, but her beauty is only skin deep. Before I share photos of our friends and family, let me explain…

After Finito perilously made it through the Big Chute in Ontario, she soon entered the waters of Georgian Bay/Lake Huron and Lake Michigan. These two lakes are actually considered to be one connected by the Straights of Mackinac. In the 1600s the Native people led the first Frenchmen fur traders through these gigantic fresh waters and the portage of Chicago to the Mississippi River. At that time people were overwhelmed and overjoyed by the plethora of herring, trout, sturgeon, perch and whitefish swimming along a rocky sand bottom of Lake Michigan. These fish had been isolated from the oceans for thousands of years as the great lakes were formed by the expansion and contraction of glaciers.

Today these beautiful glacial waters are different – mostly because of two invasive species of mussels: zebra and quagga. Both originated in the Caspian Sea but quagga can adhere much deeper and now make up most of the mass of mussels in the lake.

Zebra mussels can grow up to 40 feet but quagga mussels can grow to 540 feet deep.

According to author Dan Egan’s, The Death and Life of the Great Lakes, since these invasive species entered – by way of ship ballast because Lake Michigan was opened up to the ocean by locks of the St. Lawrence Seaway in 1959- the lake and all great lakes are greatly changed.

Today it is invasive mussels, not fish, that stretch from shore to shore, trillions of mussels, and they can filter all of Lake Michigan in about two weeks sucking out all the life that is the base of the food web. This has led to Lake Michigan’s waters becoming some of the clearest in the world. Clear but lacking in the building blocks of life.

Beautiful Lake Michigan sand dunes and clear water, Frankfort-mid lake.

Ed in Harbor Springs, north Lake Michigan.

Even though these water are stunning, “this gin clear water is not a sign of a healthy lake, it the sign of a lake in which the bottom of the food web is collapsing.” The dive in plankton (eaten by the mussels and about 90% down) is linked to a dive in fish populations but an over abundance in submerged aquatic vegetation (sunlight now reaches much further down).

Nonetheless, since the 1970s the lake has been stocked with salmon and trout and due to an invasive fish, the alewife’s numbers recently going down, many of the native fish species numbers are now going up. So the fishing news is not all bad. There are fish, just not as many of them.

When we were with the Joneses, Ed and I saw hundreds of fishermen bringing in hundreds of salmon and it was quite a sight. The salmon migrate up rivers running into Lake Michigan to spawn. In the 1970s the salmon were put in the lake to eat the invasive alewifes and they did…this created a sportsman’s haven.

Chinook salmon caught by locals in Lake Michigan.

Salmon fishermen in the channel by a river in Frankfort.

FRIENDS

Fire sky Lake Michigan sunset- southern rim.

Scott and Linda Kuhns, Lake Walloon not far from Bay Harbor on Lake Michigan.

Friends, Scott and Linda Kuhns were the first to visit us. Ed has known them since his days at University of Florida. We were in the northern part of Lake Michigan when they visited near Harbor Springs. We saw Walloon Lake, a beautiful inland lake, where Ernest Hemingway’s family had a cottage when he was a boy. Hemingway credited this lake for giving him a love of the outdoors. Really interesting!

With the Joanne Zarro and Drew Jones on Lake Charlevoix inland of Lake Michigan.

Joanne Zarro and Drew Jones were our second guests and what a great time it was! We had one rough ride in Lake Michigan form Charlevoix to Leland where all the food fell out of the refrigerator and I screamed as a rouge wave hit us stern side – but other than that, it was smooth sailing. We looked for Northern Lights at midnight and saw the beautiful Michigan sand dunes towering above the shoreline and talked late into the night.

My sister Jenny Flaugh and her husband Mike, atop the John Hancock Building – looking out to Lake Michigan.

When we were in Chicago, My sister Jenny and her husband Mike visited Finito. Ed loved seeing his brother and sister in laws! The Flaughs are an absolute blast and we really made the best of the city. We took a boat architectural tour, visited Second City, the John Hancock building, and Manny’s Deli. Jenny even saved a goose with a broken wing by sharing its location – it was along the walkway of the lake- and by finding the right animal rescue. They texted Jenny back saying “We got your goose!” 🙂 We were so happy!

Jenny saved this Canada Goose with a broken wing. Thank you Jenny! It was located and taken to a rescue center where its wing will be fixed and it may become an educational bird.

It was wonderful to have friends and family visit. Okee loved the company too. And with every visit we heard: “The water is so clear! So beautiful!”

Rather than explain everything I just wrote in this blog post, I would simply state “its the mussels….”

I have learned that while entertaining on distant waters it’s better not to explain too much of what’s going on below the surface. This just might ruin a great vacation. Our heads are already full of the issues of the St. Lucie River – Indian River Lagoon!

55 Days Settling In, America’s “Beautiful” Great Loop

It’s May 22, we’re 55 days into America’s beautiful Great Loop! A full moon is rising over New York City and Finito, our trawler, is tucked densely into the Morris Canal at the mouth of the Hudson River. Yesterday, Captain Ed and I left the strong currents of the Manasquan Inlet in New Jersey to meet New York’s Statue of Liberty face to face.

Finito before the Statue of Liberty. Photo fellow Looper, Mike Stern.

After three days of ocean travel, the Dramamine had worn me down magnifying my emotions. Liberty stood there strong and beautiful, a gift from the people of France. She looked even more striking than she must have appeared in 1886. Holding the torch above her head with her right hand, in her left carrying a tablet inscribed July 4, 1776, the date of the U.S. Declaration of Independence. A broken chain and shackle lie at her feet as she walks forward in commemoration of the national abolition of slavery following the American Civil War. She of course also later became our icon of freedom welcoming immigrants by sea.

It was an amazing day. At one point, it was rather chaotic with tour boats, looper boats, ferries, and commercial ships jockeying for space as we waited for an opportunity to have a fellow looper take our photograph before Lady Liberty.My mind has been filled with images. Images that make me look backwards yet forwards. I have been reading Chesapeake by James Michener. Copyrighted in 1978, I remember this famous book at my parent’s bedside. Still a classic, I opened it just about a week ago when we were at the north end of the magnificent 200 mile long Chesapeake Bay. We were taking the C&D Canal from Harve de Grace to Delaware City preparing for our ocean travel to New York. I gushed over the twenty or so Canadian Geese honking by as we disembarked. “Oh look Ed! They are so beautiful!”

There have been many Canadian Geese along the trip, especially in Chesapeake Bay, but not the rafts – the millions of birds (geese, ducks, and swans) that once migrated through this great bay.

Ed and Luna at St. Michaels, Chesapeake Bay. We awoke with the dock underwater. Some residents say their greatest environmental threat is sinking.

But as I got deeper into Michener I was reminded of the carnage of hundreds of years that led up to this “beautiful” day, changing the ecology and changing the bay – something that I no longer “see.”

~Vast forests, once held in awe by the native people, burned to the ground, deer and beaver displaced, hunted and skinned for trade; the planting of the “stink weed,” the cash crop tobacco, building towering fortunes and powerful families; overfished “unlimited” shad and herring; the crash of the world’s greatest oyster fishery that once took only three to five days to filter all the bay’s water, now impaired; the ravenous consumption of helpless diamond back terrapins for soup; the unregulated mass slaughter of millions and millions of waterfowl; giant ancient sturgeon annihilated for their roe; and the bay’s multitude of the delicious blue crabs finally in decline. Today’s river is pretty but it is plagued by dead zones, algae and reduced productivity. Hard working Chesapeake Bay restoration programs are lauded and a model for the entire county. Yes, “Chesapeake Bay looks beautiful,” but she is damaged. just like the St. Lucie River – Indian River Lagoon.

Across our lands and waters, across generations – are changing baselines. We accept less as normal, as beautiful. We must continue to do all we can to regain real glory. “Beauty,” by today’s standards, is simply not enough. Liberty must come to Mother Earth.

I try to do my part but I am part of the problem too. “Keep trying,” I say. “Keep trying.”

Captain Ed and First Mate JTL in the engine room checking diesel and oil. No spills!

Ed and me? Compared to the days of our Loop departure from Stuart, Florida, on March 28, I am a much more experienced, confident, and stronger, first mate. Ed is a better and more experienced captain. I have come far from the days that I bristled at his commands. We have docked at least 40 times, with only two qualifying as “disastrous,” the others were just “beautiful!”

Well it is beginning to rain and thunder, Okee is looking at me funny again, Luna is barking and the Hudson Valley is shrouded in mist. Another adventure begins…

Since our last post our travels have included:

Solomons Island, Maryland, to Edgewater/Annapolis; Edgewater to St. Michaels; St. Michaels to Harve de Grace; Harve de Grace to Delaware City, Delaware; Delaware City to Cape May, New Jersey; Cape May to Atlantic City; Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet; Manasquan Inlet to New York City, New York.

Entire Cape May, NJ is a National Historic Landmark!

Larger Deeper Waters, Day 33 of America’s Great Loop 🇺🇸

It’s early morning and mirror-like water flows underneath our trawler “Finito.” It is hard to tell where the water stops and where the sky begins. Chesapeake Bay stretches out before us. It is enormous. Today is our 33rd day of 365. I am first mate on our journey, America’s Great Loop.

Chesapeake Bay is the largest estuary in the United States, 200 miles long-30 miles wide at max.

So far this morning I have awoken to warmly dress, check the lines, study the current, and review the tides and weather. I’m happy. It’s going to be a beautiful day.

Standing on the floating dock next to laughing gulls and a tall blue heron, Captain Ed and I say farewell to new Looper friends and push off from Yorktown Marina, Virginia. Ed actually complements me on my performance.

Chesapeake Bay is renowned for its conservation efforts, but continues to struggle to meet targets -the majority not met caused by agriculture. Nonetheless, in the York River a tributary of the Chesapeake, the dock area was full of families and children swimming, minnows and bird life, growing grasses and fans.

“Thanks, but all of the conditions were in our favor,” I reply.

Only a few days ago we had left Beaufort, North Carolina, a perfect time capsule of a town, and overwhelmed by strong current, barely avoided collision and lost a couple of fenders as we scraped our way forward. Half the community, dockhands, and many tourist looked on wide-eyed as Ed and I lost control of Finito within seconds. With our hearts pounding, Captain Ed and I straddled the Intracoastal markers spaced for cargo ships and barges and continued on our way into the deep Newport River that made the St. Lucie look like a creek.

“Junction Buoy” Intracoastal Waterway, Newport River, NC

There was no anger nor blame. In fact we were completely silent. Mother Nature had beaten us both even though we had been analyzing her for days…

Humbled before Nature – she tempered us.

The waterways have gotten larger and deeper and more unpredictable. Since I last wrote we have traveled from Beaufort NC to River Dunes; River Dunes to Belhaven; Belhaven to Coinjock; Coinjock to Norfolk; and Norfolk to Yorktown VA.

Waiting and passing through the Great Bridge Locks on the old Albemarle-Chesapeake Canal caused Ed and me reflect on the hardships of soldiers who fought in the Revolutionary War, their battlefield nearby. A complete wilderness, not much different today, but for tugs pushing barges. Not far from here lies the Dismal Swamp where thousands of escaped slaves found shelter during the Civil War.

Slowly, we had entered the Pamlico and the Pungo Rivers, next, Albermarte Sound. Rough and windy weather had overtaken us and always the optimist I worried the hull would burst open. Ed rolled his eyes and carefully came off the fly bridge into the pilot house as waves crashed over the boat. I put on my life jacket.

“I hope we don’t lose an engine,” I thought rejudging my size as I moved about the cabin. Okee and Luna were sitting up straight. They were doing well but confused by the pounding. After about two hours, it passed…

Norfolk, Virginia, the world’s largest naval base lie before us. Warships and aircraft carriers lined the Elizabeth River. Ed skillfully made his way giving way. I stood on the bow awe struck.

Touring the Battleship Wisconsin, Norfolk, VA.

From Norfolk we traveled to Yorktown, part of America’s historic triangle along with Jamestown and Willamsburg. We could see the monument from afar, beckoning. Slowly Lady Justice came into view as we entered port. What an experience it would be to step upon the hallowed ground where America gained her independence. 🇺🇸

Captain Ed stands reading the Yorktown Victory Monument commemorating the 1781 victory and alliance with France that brought about an end to the American Revolutionary War.

A discussion with Commander in Chief , General George Washington; Major General Lafayette, Continental Army; Lieutenant General Rochambeau, French Army; and Admiral de Grasse, French Navy.

Tuna for Okee and Luna! Such great fur-babies and so brave!

The making of a 1st-mate, Day 23 of America’s Great Loop

It is day 23 of at least 365 on America’s Great Loop. At this point, with bruised arms and sore elbows, I am a bonafide first-mate and have learned to take orders. Every day, I assist my captain. I check diesel levels, I peer intently through binoculars looking for Intracoastal triangles, announce distant shoaling, man the lines, drop the fenders, and sometimes even take the wheel. I have accepted my fate ~ I am not in charge.

However, Captian Ed and I have re-bonded through my acceptance of this simple but profound concept, one I never did accept in the 20 years of our marriage. I’ve decided it’s OK for now. 🙂

Life has changed. Every day chores like doing laundry, fixing a leaky sink, or vacuuming have become endearing. Kind of like being in college again. Serious decisions have given way to listening and discussion. We are becoming a team. How long this new peace-pact will last, I am not certain. But on our 55 foot trawler, “Finito,”we live day by day; it’s slow and beautiful.

Happy at Myrtle Beach Yacht Club after successfully backing into a slip.

The low country of the Carolina coast is defined by marshlands and the American history of the Deep South. These marshes fed the riches of cotton, indigo and rice plantations. The Gullah culture of former slaves resonates, though the area is now covered with golf courses and subdivisions.

Emancipation Oak, southern states, Beaufort, SC.

The marshes themselves are habitat to hundreds of aquatic organisms, birds, and animal species. Connected to countless river estuaries, they are the nursery to the sea. Polluted stormwater, groundwater contamination, and developmental habitat destruction have negatively affected some areas. To the untrained eye, like mine, it looks relatively healthy. Of course, turn of the century dredging of the Intracoastal Waterway created our “Great Loop” roadway.

The American Great Loopers Cruisers Association shows the path of the “great loop.”

Since my last post Ed and I have traveled from Hilton Head to Port Royal; Port Royal to Charleston; Charleston to Georgetown; Georgetown to Myrtle Beach; Myrtle Beach to Southport; Southport to Wrightsville; and Wrightsville to Swansboro.

My uncle reminded me that my Henderson ancestors traveled up North Carolina’s Cape Fear River where they settled near Campbelton, the same Scottish settlement name as the town they’d left in the 1770s. I picture them taking a ferry through the reed filled marshes, or a cypress black river, the tides washing away the hardships of the old-world and bringing hope for life anew.

Boro Low County Kitchen, Cape Fear River, Swansboro, NC.

13 days in on America’s Great Loop

American Great Loop Cruisers Association

Ed and I are 13 days in on America’s Great Loop. 300 miles of 5600. I have stopped wearing makeup. I’ve worn the same clothes for at least 10 days. I’ve taken three showers. I’ve washed my hair twice. I’ve gotten pretty good at “manning” the lines and pulling up or putting down the giant fenders. I’m sleeping better than I ever recall. So far, it’s been an absolutely amazing and challenging trip.

I am the first mate. That means that I have to do what the captain, my husband Ed, tells me to. This is challenging. And we have had a few heated discussions. We have with us our 12 year old Belgium Shepherd, Luna, and our 3 year old cat, Okee. They are great company and Okee is definitely now a therapy cat.

We use headphones when docking. They are called “marriage savers.” Fernandina, Amelia Island.

This boat trip is supposed to last about one year. Ed retired, and I was not reconfirmed by the Senate for the South Florida Water Management District governing board, nor reappointed by the Governor. Thus, this long journey seemed a perfect thing to do. Time for Ed and I to spend some quality time together. As we all know, “time is of the essence.”

So far, our trip has been Stuart to Vero, Vero to Titusville, Titusville to Ponce Inlet, Ponce Inlet to Saint Augustine, Saint Augustine to Fernandina, Fernandina to Jekyll Island, Jekyll Island to Sunbury, and Sunbury to Isle of Hope. Today we are headed to Beaufort, South Carolina, hopefully, weather is to arrive and last for two or three days.

“Wow these crab traps are close together aren’t they?” Sorry we’re approaching Savannah. We just went past Thunderbolt Marina and these crab traps are like, oh my gosh, they’re like you have to weave through them!

The wildlife has been wonderful. My favorite so far are the white pelicans sitting marsh side in groups of 25 or so. They have the second largest wingspan of any bird in North America 9-10 feet. Only the California Condor’s is larger.

White Pelicans have been in Florida, Georgia and South Carolina.

The trees too have also been an inspiration. Oaks, slash pines, red cedar, and magnolia. Their births holding the rings of hundreds of years. I look up into their highest branches ridiculously trying to capture their spirt within the rectangle of my iPhone.

I’ve been trying to learn about water issues and I have. Most in Georgia are caused by industrial point source pollution and none have been as tragic as the 100 year destruction of the St. Lucie River. Discharges from Lake Okeechobee should be considered point source pollution too.

The serpentine waterways of north Florida and especially Georgia have been just mind boggling . The tide is like a slow breath through the marsh purifying and renewing the ecosystem – oysters, crabs, frogs, alligators, mink, otter and many species of fish. The highest tidal range has been 8 feet!

Lover’s Oak, Brunswick, GA. Over 300 years old 🌳

I’m hoping that this peregrination teaches me something about myself, my marriage, and the history and environmental issues of our great country. Then when I return home, I know I will be renewed.

But I am paying attention.

I noticed yesterday that Governor DeSantis came to a Cove Road Walgreens to sign off on a shoplifting legislative bill with harsher penalties for those who steal. I was surprised he didn’t also mention Martin County’s recent “Lost Spring” due to discharges from Lake Okeechobee. That was stealing too. While I’m on the subject, there was not a peep from Senator Gayle Harrell, or Representatives Overdorf or Snyder about the Lake O discharges either. I suppose Tallahassee leadership has asked that “we just not talk about it.” God forbid…