It’s May 22, we’re 55 days into America’s beautiful Great Loop! A full moon is rising over New York City and Finito, our trawler, is tucked densely into the Morris Canal at the mouth of the Hudson River. Yesterday, Captain Ed and I left the strong currents of the Manasquan Inlet in New Jersey to meet New York’s Statue of Liberty face to face.
After three days of ocean travel, the Dramamine had worn me down magnifying my emotions. Liberty stood there strong and beautiful, a gift from the people of France. She looked even more striking than she must have appeared in 1886. Holding the torch above her head with her right hand, in her left carrying a tablet inscribed July 4, 1776, the date of the U.S. Declaration of Independence. A broken chain and shackle lie at her feet as she walks forward in commemoration of the national abolition of slavery following the American Civil War. She of course also later became our icon of freedom welcoming immigrants by sea.
It was an amazing day. At one point, it was rather chaotic with tour boats, looper boats, ferries, and commercial ships jockeying for space as we waited for an opportunity to have a fellow looper take our photograph before Lady Liberty.
My mind has been filled with images. Images that make me look backwards yet forwards. I have been reading Chesapeake by James Michener. Copyrighted in 1978, I remember this famous book at my parent’s bedside. Still a classic, I opened it just about a week ago when we were at the north end of the magnificent 200 mile long Chesapeake Bay. We were taking the C&D Canal from Harve de Grace to Delaware City preparing for our ocean travel to New York. I gushed over the twenty or so Canadian Geese honking by as we disembarked. “Oh look Ed! They are so beautiful!”
But as I got deeper into Michener I was reminded of the carnage of hundreds of years that led up to this “beautiful” day, changing the ecology and changing the bay – something that I no longer “see.”
~Vast forests, once held in awe by the native people, burned to the ground, deer and beaver displaced, hunted and skinned for trade; the planting of the “stink weed,” the cash crop tobacco, building towering fortunes and powerful families; overfished “unlimited” shad and herring; the crash of the world’s greatest oyster fishery that once took only three to five days to filter all the bay’s water, now impaired; the ravenous consumption of helpless diamond back terrapins for soup; the unregulated mass slaughter of millions and millions of waterfowl; giant ancient sturgeon annihilated for their roe; and the bay’s multitude of the delicious blue crabs finally in decline. Today’s river is pretty but it is plagued by dead zones, algae and reduced productivity. Hard working Chesapeake Bay restoration programs are lauded and a model for the entire county. Yes, “Chesapeake Bay looks beautiful,” but she is damaged. just like the St. Lucie River – Indian River Lagoon.
Across our lands and waters, across generations – are changing baselines. We accept less as normal, as beautiful. We must continue to do all we can to regain real glory. “Beauty,” by today’s standards, is simply not enough. Liberty must come to Mother Earth.
I try to do my part but I am part of the problem too. “Keep trying,” I say. “Keep trying.”
Ed and me? Compared to the days of our Loop departure from Stuart, Florida, on March 28, I am a much more experienced, confident, and stronger, first mate. Ed is a better and more experienced captain. I have come far from the days that I bristled at his commands. We have docked at least 40 times, with only two qualifying as “disastrous,” the others were just “beautiful!”
Well it is beginning to rain and thunder, Okee is looking at me funny again, Luna is barking and the Hudson Valley is shrouded in mist. Another adventure begins…
Since our last post our travels have included:
Solomons Island, Maryland, to Edgewater/Annapolis; Edgewater to St. Michaels; St. Michaels to Harve de Grace; Harve de Grace to Delaware City, Delaware; Delaware City to Cape May, New Jersey; Cape May to Atlantic City; Atlantic City to Manasquan Inlet; Manasquan Inlet to New York City, New York.
Beautiful pics. You are reminding us of our travels. Wish you could have stopped in Oxford (where we kept our boat), but St. Michaels isn’t a bad alternate. The crab & oyster story in Chesapeake is a sad one, a bit like our fight here.
You & Ed enjoy you adventure to the max. Know you will…
Fair Winds,
Jim & Sandy
Although we’re happily ensconced in Fla. on the IRL since 2009 your story reminds me how much I miss our favorite places on the Bay especially St. Michaels being one or our favorites. Wishing you the best for the rest of your exciting trip.!
Looking like a fabulous trip… Continued success… !!
Be glad to send you as many lizards as Okee would like!!
Thank you for sharing the beautiful pictures and updates of your travel adventures! Sorry to hear about the oysters, just like our IRL, we continue fighting to protect and restore this beautiful planet. Enjoy each other, the journey and making new memories. All the best. Deb
Just love armchair traveling with you! Be safe and enjoy every minute!
Thank you Janet – you are one of my very favorite “passengers!” 🙂
YAY, Mike and I are so very excited for you both and your beloved furry ones! So far, we have not read all your posts because we do not have cell phone signal a lot. Great timing because just last night, I was wondering where your journey has taken you. We were in Port Arthur, Texas, and then last night in Amelia, Louisiana. When you are coming down the Mighty Mississippi, do not let the Cajuns run ramshod over you…they can be a fairly gruff crowd!
Safe travels and wondrous adventures!
Marsha so wonderful to hear from you and Mike. Ed and I think and refer to your experiences often on this journey! What a life on the water! The Mississippi should be a challenge. Even today in the Hudson River there were logs that were trees! Whole trees! And yes, we will try to hold our own while respecting those the great river!
Great stories.
Thank you Newton! I always love to hear from you.
While our family lived in California, MD our family would go to Solomons Island, knock on a house door on the water, and a man would come out to lift a basket of blue crabs for us to purchase and cook at home! Of course, husband Phil played games with the crabs and children!😂YUM!!!!
Solomons was a gem! You must have such wonderful memories of this special place.
You and Ed are taking such a wonderful trip…..love Lady Liberty. The only time I have ever seen her was from an ocean liner, and I cried. I plan a return trip with my daughter and 2 granddaughters to NYC, and we will take the ferry so they can see her also. Your posts from Florida are always some of my favorites, but have been difficult to comment on. Anyway, enjoy the rest of your trip. And thank you for all you have done to keep our rivers, canals and ocean clean.
Thank you for commenting. I know it is cumbersome somehow. I cried too. Just so inspiring.
Kindly check your Facebook messenger— you will want to go to Frances Langford’s cottage…. Directions included on messenger
Jeff
Hello Jeff! Will do and do love.
Thank you for sharing your adventure. Fascinating. Saddened by the loss of sealife, confirmed. Photos are gorgeous and you both look radiant.
Thank you Barbara.
Great pictures….
Thank you!
Only 2 disastrous docking that’s fantastic!! Important ? Are you still married? LOL
Ha! Ha! Yes, we are still married! You know this world Becky! STILL!
What a magnificent adventure!
Thank you Polly. I sometime think of your cats. 🙂
Beautiful photos! Wow, from helicopter to sea. What an adventure. I just completed my first solo cycling fundraiser for TheOceanCleanup.com – 1500+ miles from Hobe Sound, Florida to NYC and back to my childhood home in Old Greenwich, CT. Would be grateful if you would share my fundraising link! All proceeds go to TheOceanCleanup.com to remove 90% of floating plastics and trash from our world’s most polluted rivers and The Great Pacific Garbage Patch. Thank you!
https://fund.theoceancleanup.com/fundraisers/colleenproppe/community-usd
Colleen good for you. I will find best way to share your good work. Thank you!
Great trip – I remember it well. Enjoy the adventure!
🙂
Great adventures and writings. Thanks for sharing with us.
Enjoy it all and each other.
Many thanks Mike.
Manasquan Inlet is my home port, hope you enjoyed. Finito is a large craft for just 2 so well done!
Bill! Your home port. What a place! Beautiful!
From: carjon60 You two look as though you’ve shed the skin of this century and are glowing from within as from the 1700’s when all was more abundant in our lands (& waters). You both look more radiant than 55 days ago! Many more blessings to find as you go!
Blessings to you as well! Thank you!
So kind of you!
Love reading your posts! What an adventure! We miss you in Stuart.
Sandy P.
Miss you and Jim too Sandy! Thanks!
Thank you!
Keep ’em Coming! Mickey and I Love hearing about your Adventures…and insights into saving the Hudson that shoud be a model for us here saving our preious Estuarys.
Your words are so appreciated! 😁💧thank you!
Enjoy and be safe.
Will do!!