The Great Loop’s Mississippi/Alabama string of locks along the “Tennessee -Tombigbee” Waterway has been a challenge. The journey is beautiful, but very remote and requires frequent anchoring out. More than anything the cold weather has kept us on our toes. Even Okee is wearing a scarf. She seems slightly irritated. Even so, I wouldn’t trade this experience for anything.
Locks & Dams on “Tenn-Tom Waterway”:
Today we completed our eleventh lock, at Demopolis, Alabama. We got lucky leaving this morning as there were two tugs behind us and one in front of us.
The lands of this stoic waterway must have many stories: of native peoples and runaway slaves, of early explorations of Hernando de DeSoto, and of the many people, plantations, and animals that have called this region home. Today it is a commercial and pleasure boat thoroughfare.
The locks and dams of the Tenn-Tom Waterway connecting the Tennessee and Tombigbee rivers began in the 1930s and were completed in 1984. It must be pointed out, this is no straight canal cut, but rather connections of waterbodies and there remain hairpin curves and winding channels.
The region is remote and that’s its power. White pelicans, cormorants, king fishers, coots, American Egrets and Great Blue Herons are everywhere. A conversation with one of the lock masters gave details of duck hunting regulations and the types in the area today: blue teal specifically from Saskatchewan as well as wood ducks and mallards from the north.
Even in the locks themselves there are gulls and wading birds looking for fish.
At the end of a day, after one of the locks, Ed pulled Finito into a cut-off canal.
It was at this point knowing we would be here for the night that all of this wilderness got to me. “Is this really where we are overnighting Ed? Will we be safe out here? We’re absolutely in the middle of nowhere. Did you bring a gun?”
Ed looked straight at me, saying nothing.
“Aren’t you nervous with no-one for miles around?” I inquired.
Ed ignored me taking out his drone. I watched him waiting for him to answer me.
Crash!
“This will teach him, I thought.” Out in the middle of nowhere and no way to get that drone out of these trees!
Right about then a boat jetted around the bin. Ed waved it over and the two young duck hunters agreed to give Ed a ride into the woods. Practiced duck hunters, they helped retrieve the drone. Ed came back full of thorns.
It was a beautiful night and the stars were bright against a velvet sky. We could even see the Milky Way. We searched for the North Star and reminisced about Boy Scouts and Girl Scouts as we pointed out Orion and the Big Dipper. A blue heron squawked eerily as it flew overhead. It was otherworldly-romantic, but the night was cold and the morning even colder.
Ed’s crash drone video:
It hasn’t all been wilderness. We stayed at Columbus Marina in Columbus, Mississippi, just before crossing over from Mississippi into Alabama. It was fascinating. First, upon calling my mother, I learned that my father’s first cousin taught at the university here and that my parents had once visited him and his family. My younger siblings Jenny and Todd came too. I was at University of Florida.
Ironically there is a “Thurlow Drive” here named after this family.
Columbus has an amazing Deep South history; a hospital town during the Civil War, it was not burned as were so many. Tending to of both Confederate and Union soldiers especially from the Battle of Shiloh I talked about in my previous post. Union and Confederate burials at Friendship Cemetery was the site of America’s first “Decoration Day” in 1866 inspiring Francis Miles Finch’ famous poem “The Blue and the Gray” and is considered the inspiration for Memorial Day.
Whence the fleets of iron have fled,
Where the blades of the grave-grass quiver,
Asleep are the ranks of the dead:
Under the sod and the dew,
Waiting the judgment-day;
Under the one, the Blue,
Under the other, the Gray.
Those in the gloom of defeat,
All with the battle-blood gory,
In the dusk of eternity meet:
Under the sod and the dew,
Waiting the judgment-day,
Under the laurel, the Blue,
Under the willow, the Gray.
The desolate mourners go,
Lovingly laden with flowers
Alike for the friend and the foe:
Under the sod and the dew,
Waiting the judgment-day,
Under the roses, the Blue,
Under the lilies, the Gray.
The morning sun-rays fall,
With a touch impartially tender,
On the blossoms blooming for all:
Under the sod and the dew,
Waiting the judgment-day,
Broidered with gold, the Blue,
Mellowed with gold, the Gray.
On forest and field of grain,
With an equal murmur falleth
The cooling drip of the rain:
Under the sod and the dew,
Waiting the judgment-day,
Wet with the rain, the Blue,
Wet with the rain, the Gray.
The generous deed was done,
In the storm of the years that are fading
No braver battle was won:
Under the sod and the dew,
Waiting the judgment-day,
Under the blossoms, the Blue,
Under the garlands, the Gray.
Or the winding rivers be red;
The banish our anger forever
When they laurel the graves of our dead!
Under the sod and the dew,
Waiting the judgment-day,
Love and tears for the Blue,
Tears and love for the Gray.
Famous writing continues….
Playwright Tennessee Williams, a Columbus native wrote : “The violets in the mountains have broken the rocks.”
Columbus’ many antebellum homes stand today because of those violets.
The city holds an annual “Pilgrimage” and opens their antebellum homes for public viewing. In recent years, students have added their interpretations some from the perspective of slaves.
In Columbus churches were everywhere! Apparently, the many historic and beautiful churches also give tours and recently have added a synagogue.
I had been making dinner on the boat every night, but in Columbus Ed said although he appreciated my cooking, he wanted a steak. Huck’s Place in downtown was perfect!
As we approach our final lock in Coffeeville, the National Weather Service has put out a “Extreme Cold Watch,” and the Dog River Marina, in Mobile, where we will arrive in a few days, has let us know no water will be available as water lines will be shut off, due to “the coming freeze.”
Cold, cold, cold….
Passing by the remarkable White Cliffs of Epps near Demopolis I was reminded not to worry about freezes or other stressful things, but to make the best of it, because time is just ticking, ticking away…
Lock Life!
You have a real way with words. Impressive.
Uncle Russ your life has certainly inspired me.
Have been thoroughly enjoying all of your posts on your loop journey..
what fabulous memories you are making!
🙂
This was one of the most moving posts. The civil war’s legacy came to life. You might want to read The Deepest South Of All, which discusses pilgrimages and ante bellum mansions, and the place in communities in the 21st century.
Louise thank you so much; I will definitely get the book. Can’t wait to read it.
Great pictures and words to go along with them….Thank you…
Thanks!
My brother in law used to teach at that Mississippi State College for Women in Columbus. It was the first state-supported college for women in America. It’s had several names. Very interesting little town. We visited the historic graveyard and it was certainly moving. Thanks for the meaningful poem, and stay warm kids! Your kitty cat is so precious. 😽
Janet thank you from me and from Okee. Maybe your brother and law and my father’s cousin were professors at the same time? Small world and yes amazing history there.
Thank you Jacqui, What a journey! Love the history and details reminding us to pay attention to the beauty around us, yet acknowledging that life throws us curve balls everyday. The blue and grey also reminds us to be grateful for all we have in this life and Country as so many paid a price for the freedoms we enjoy. May God bless you and Ed on your continued journeys.
God bless you as well Debbie. Thank you so much.
Those young duck hunters and boat could be a picture of my past. Still have cousins motoring the “bottoms” looking for ducks and geese. Breaking ice to make holes for the decoys.
Take care in the extreme cold. Mechanical things do not like it.
Newton.
Newton you believe me that I was thinking of you when those young duck hunters came around the corner! 🙂
Brings back a lot of memories! Thanks and keep them coming.
Thanks John!
I would have been full of trepidation, too, anchoring in that canal or any cut off canal! You just needed assurance, LOL. My family is from Nashville as you know, and Florida spares me the “weight” of the South that both beckons and repels. As Pat Conroy wrote, “My wound is geography.” Your postings arouse so much curiosity in me and such a thirst for more that I can hardly wait for the next one!!! Love to both of you, well, ALL of you!!!
Patty you are so poetry in your thoughts and words yourself. Nashville was one of our favorite places and the entire South in general is incredible.
Are there icicles forming on Ed’s beard? 😜
YES! 🙂
Thanks for sharing. It’s pretty cool Stuart. Be safe.
Thank you!
Jacqui Thurlow-Lippisch’s “Lock Life on the Tenn-Tom Waterway” is a masterfully crafted narrative that intertwines historical insight, environmental appreciation, and personal reflection. Her vivid descriptions transport readers to the remote stretches of the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway, highlighting both its natural beauty and historical significance. The account of navigating through eleven locks, encountering diverse wildlife, and experiencing the solitude of the waterway offers a compelling glimpse into the challenges and rewards of such a journey. Moreover, the anecdote involving the drone recovery adds a touch of humanity and humor, underscoring the unpredictability and camaraderie found in such adventures. Jacqui’s ability to weave together elements of history, nature, and personal experience results in a narrative that is both informative and deeply engaging.
Goodness. You really made my day! Thank you!