Hello Canada! 84 Days into America’s Great Loop

Canadian flag- required flying on Finito!

Captain Ed, Luna, Okee and I have arrived in Kingston, Ontario – Canada! This means we have traveled about 1500 miles since leaving Stuart, Florida. After 84 days, our captain/crew capabilities have improved, but are certainly not perfected.

Kingston is a historic and interesting city full of Canada Geese, Mallard Ducks, and people from all over the world, all raising their children. The water at Confederation Basin Marina is clear. Kingston lies on Lake Ontario at the mouth of the Cataraqui and St. Laurence Rivers. The submerged aquatic vegetation is so thick, it is being removed and piled atop the docks. I have been unable to determine if it is native or partially invasive. Nonetheless, the geese and ducks eat it ravenously!

The population of Kingston is very diverse. The city houses Queens University. The blend of old and new city has a hip and international vibe. There is every imaginable ethnic restaurant. Reading the historic markers makes clear that the community is coming to terms with its difficult Native American history.

Flowers fill the rocks and pots of the city.
Ed & Luna fill the “i.”
On the back of a historical sign about John A. Macdonald, the first Prime Minister of Kingston.
Okee looks out wondering why Luna gets to go and she doesn’t!
Kingston’s Sydenham Street United Church. Built 1851-52. The United Church of Canada is the country’s largest and embraces all people.

Since I last blogged, Ed and I have traveled from upstate New York’s Brewerton to Oswego; Oswego to Clayton; Clayton to Wellesley Island, and Wellesley Islands to Kingston, Ontario.

Ed and I stayed longer than planned in Brewerton. We had significant starboard bow-thruster issues in the Erie Canal and had hoped to get fixed at Winter Haven Marina. After a 12 day visit, we did not. Ed is ready to learn how to handle the boat anyway, and I had the opportunity to study a colony of supersonic barn swallows and their chicks. Also, with time on our hands, Ed and I visited the lands of my family’s mid 1800s teasel growing-Thurlow English heritage: Syracuse and Skaneateles, New York.

My father was born in Syracuse in 1936 and grew up in Liverpool on Onondaga Lake. This five mile long lake, sacred to the Iroquois Confederacy, became polluted by industrial pollution and sewage to the point that by the first half of the twentieth century it was one of the country’s most contaminated waterbodies. My grandfather moved the family to a home on the St. Lucie River in Stuart, Florida in 1952. Little did he know the fate of the Indian River Lagoon. Unlike the St. Lucie, Onondaga Lake has gone from “the butt of one eyed fish jokes” to a lake of beauty, much enjoyed and improved. Let’s hope the St. Lucie River/Indian River Lagoon can do the same.   

Carpenter Falls on beautiful Skaneateles Lake was my father’s favorite. It lies in an old growth Hemlock forest towering above the cliffs of Bear Swamp Creek. My dear father passed away in 2022, but I could clearly envision him standing under the falls since he  could not swim in Onondaga Lake. It must have been a happy place for him and it was a happy place for me that day too.

My father’s boyhood house in Liverpool, NY on Onondaga Lake.
Carpenter Falls on Skaneateles Lake.

Thereafter, Ed and I returned to Brewerton and headed west through locks on the Erie Canal, once rapids or waterfalls, taking Finito north at Three Rivers – where we saw our first swan! Once in the Oswego River it became narrow and quiet and I thought about how my reading had taught me that this river, as all between Lake Ontario and the Hudson River, was the lands of the French and Indian War – that of course included the British. This was a time when commerce was motivated by the slaughter of animals for the fur  trade. Millions and millions of them…

Sometimes history is overwhelming but one can’t close one’s eyes to it. Ed and I were reminded during our visit to Oswego that the city was the ONLY  in the U.S. to accept Jews during WWII. The Safe Haven Holocaust Refugee Shelter Museum/Fort Ontario tells this incredible story.

Oswego River empties into Lake Ontario. Centuries of industry has contaminated both the river and lake. Today it is being improved.
There are many black squirrels in Upstate New York but this has nothing to do with the water!

From Oswego, Captain Ed, “bow-thusterless,” led  Finito through the St. Lawrence River to Clayton, first settled in 1801. It was the main railroad terminus to the 1000 Islands resort region during its heyday of the Gilded Age at the turn of the 20th Century. These rock islands emerge from crystal clear water. Most are forested. 

Here the rich and famous built vacation homes – the most famous being Boldt Castle. Within thirty years, Mr. George Boldt, rose from poor Prussian immigrant to fabulously wealthy proprietor of the Waldorf-Astoria hotel. Boldt abandoned the castle upon the death of his beloved wife for whom he was building this castle. Lovingly reconstructed by the Thousand Island Bridge Authority, today, the castle is open to all as amazing testament to the spirit of the American Dream and of American history.

Boldt Castle, Heart Island, 1000 Islands, 1900-1904, fell into disrepair for over 70 years and is now mostly restored.
Ed and I definitely resorted our love hearing the story of Heart Island-Boldt Castle. To celebrate we had a rare restaurant dinner afterwards at the 1000 Islands Club on Wellesely Island.
Ed looks out into the 1000 Islands, NY. his love Luna, always nearby.
Ironically, once of the great lessons for Ed and I at Boldt Castle was that the chef of the Waldorf-Astoia invented “1000 Islands” salad dressing! Something we had seen our whole lives in the refrigerator with no idea…
Part of New York State Canal System showing Lake Ontario.

 

 

34 thoughts on “Hello Canada! 84 Days into America’s Great Loop

  1. Beautiful history and ties to your family. Great photos too, looks like you are both enjoying the trip. Deb Duvall

  2. Fantastic! You’re both looking so much more relaxed and happy. Enjoy and keep going!

  3. Hi Guys! It is so much fun traveling with you both! What an incredible and unforgettable experience. I bet there are interesting lessons as you experience parts of this landscape.

  4. This is all so fascinating! Love your details. Thank you for sharing! Enjoy your travels.

  5. As Always love hearing from you and your Travels as we are on our Summer Boat Cruise currently in Marsh Harbour. My husband’s father & mother also grew up in Syracuse so he loved your picture as well… and thank you so very much for the History very much appreciated!!! Cindy B

    1. Cindi wow your parents are also from Syracuse! Really a beautiful area – sometimes I wonder why my grandfather left. Is snow that bad!? 🙂 All the best to you in Marsh Harbour! Nothing like the water in that part of the world!

  6. I am enjoying every entry but I have been away vacationing with Shirley, my older sister and had little time to comment on your always fascinating, edifying posts!!!! Our lives as families in Stuart are indeed entwined and seeing your father’s childhood home jogged memories of my parents’ long association with your grandparents. Even as a child I was always struck with their glamorous good looks! The Erie Canal was so important to our expansion and industrial success I remember now there is a fabulous book on it. Could it be a David McCullough? I’ll have to check! Good grief, the salad dressing!!! I giggled at “bow thrusterlessness” Wishing you well every day! xo

    1. Patty! Hope you had a wonderful vacation with your sister. Yes our families go way back to a time when people really dressed up! You still always look so beautiful and put together! I will check on the book. The New York State Canal System esp. the Erie just blows my mind. The history is amazing. Love to you!

  7. Simply stunning and amazing. Thank you so much for sharing. The two of you look like new versions of yourselves. How transformative the journeys of our lives are!

  8. It’s so nice to get your travel blogging information on where you and Ed are going and where you’ve been. Do you ever get home sick?

    1. Hi Tom. We do get homesick sometimes. It is fun but strange ALWAYS being on the boat. Always being together. Always can be a long time! Knowing we have our home is comforting. Many on the Loop sell their homes. The experience is life changing and I am grateful beyond words for the opportunity. Ed and I will be better people when it is done. All good things to you and yours and the beautiful birds in your photographs!

  9. Beautiful! Thank you for posting! Michelle and I honeymooned at the Waldorf in NY in 2000.

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