The making of a 1st-mate, Day 23 of America’s Great Loop

It is day 23 of at least 365 on America’s Great Loop. At this  point, with bruised arms and sore elbows, I am a bonafide first-mate and have learned to take orders. Every day, I assist my captain. I check diesel levels, I peer intently through binoculars looking for Intracoastal triangles, announce distant shoaling, man the lines, drop the fenders, and sometimes even take the wheel.  I have accepted my fate ~ I am not in charge.

Checking diesel levels for my captain.

However, Captian Ed and I have re-bonded through my acceptance of this simple but profound concept, one I never did accept  in the 20 years of our marriage. I’ve decided it’s OK for now. 🙂

Life has changed. Every day chores like doing laundry, fixing a leaky sink, or vacuuming have become endearing. Kind of like being in college again. Serious decisions have given way to listening and discussion. We are becoming a team. How long this new peace-pact will last, I am not certain. But on our 55 foot trawler, “Finito,”we live day by day; it’s slow and beautiful.

Happy at Myrtle Beach Yacht Club after successfully backing into a slip.
Doing laundry, Hilton Head, SC.

The low country of the Carolina coast is defined by marshlands and the American history of the Deep South. These marshes fed the riches of cotton, indigo and rice plantations. The Gullah culture of former slaves resonates, though the area is now covered with golf courses and subdivisions.

Emancipation Oak, southern states, Beaufort, SC.

The marshes themselves are habitat to hundreds of aquatic organisms, birds, and animal species. Connected to countless river estuaries, they are the nursery to the sea. Polluted stormwater, groundwater contamination, and developmental habitat destruction have negatively affected some areas. To the untrained eye, like mine, it looks relatively healthy. Of course, turn of the century dredging of the Intracoastal Waterway created our “Great Loop” roadway.

The American Great Loopers Cruisers Association shows the path of the “great loop.”
Marshland, Beaufort, SC.
Fantastic Waccanaw River osprey nests! 

A house along the marsh, Georgetown, SC.

Since my last post Ed and I have traveled from Hilton Head to Port Royal; Port Royal to Charleston; Charleston to Georgetown; Georgetown to Myrtle Beach; Myrtle Beach to Southport; Southport to Wrightsville; and Wrightsville to Swansboro.

My uncle reminded me that my Henderson ancestors traveled up North Carolina’s Cape Fear River where they settled near Campbelton, the same Scottish settlement name as the town they’d left in the 1770s. I picture them taking a ferry through the reed filled marshes, or a cypress black river, the tides washing away the hardships of the old-world and bringing hope for life anew.

Boro Low County Kitchen, Cape Fear River, Swansboro, NC.

47 thoughts on “The making of a 1st-mate, Day 23 of America’s Great Loop

  1. I love the photos and commentary. Reminds me of Jim and my trip through these areas in our Gemini catamaran back in the early 2000’s. What wonderful memories you and Ed are making on this fantastic journey!

  2. Thank you for sharing!
    I’m already happily receiving your posts❗️

    Is your trek just to do it or is it engulfed in something else?

    1. Hi. Ed and I are doing the Loop to reset our lives. He retired and I was not confirmed by the Senate for the SFWMD GB. We love the water and learning the history of our country and environmental history too. This challenge seemed to fit the bill! I am hoping new doors will open.

  3. What a nice commentary on your trip! I know Ed would be a great captain as his flight instructor. He was very precise and everything he did and you are under the watch of one of the greatest captains you could have on your trawler. Have a great trip. It’s very interesting to read about every day in your journal. That’s a wonderful trip you and Ed have decided to make, and it will be a lifetime event.

    1. Thank you Tom so much for these words. Ed will be touched by them. I so remember your instruction in the airplane and I was a wimp not “wanting to take the wheel!” It seems in time, one can overcome such and “fly.” All the best and I love your beautiful bird photography! There are birds here I have never seen.

  4. Brent and I are so enjoying reading about your Great Loop adventure. So inspired by you both. With love, Stacy

  5. Enjoying every reflection and adventure!!!!! Horseback riding and partner dancing both of which I learned in my late 60s was revealed to me as perfect practices for being in a loving, committed relationship. Both had revelatory lessons that continue to make me awestruck!!!! Wishing you fair winds and following seas!!! And sending lots of love!

    1. Ernie, totally cool that you were born in Beaufort South Carolina. We visited both NC/SC and learned that it is pronounced differently in each place. It is easier for me to say the South Carolina “Beaufort!” Beautiful part of our country!!!

  6. So cool to see what you all are experiencing. The pic of the house reminds me of st. Simon’s and Jeckel islands in Ga. Sorry about the spelling. If you go through the British Virgin islands, you might want to pull over to an island called Yost van dyke. My bunny on our boat joked it was related to the actors Dike and Jerry van dyke. Fun and beautiful place. We did 2 weeks on a 51 foot beneteau sail boat in 92. Went from red hook in st Thomas down to st Kitts and island hopped back. Lotta fun
    Good for you and God bless.

    1. Thank you and I’m glad you liked the picture of the house. Your journey must have been absolutely wonderful. A sailboat is the real deal. I find myself thinking after Ed and conquer this a sailboat journey would be next. Blessings to you too!

  7. Fantastic journey! Exemplary storytelling. Thank you for brightening my day. Love to you both.

  8. I always delight in your posts! Thanks for sharing this…..I can’t think of 2 people that deserve it more.
    I’ve just returned from 5 day trip to Duke University because little Willow got a full ride and moves in on August 17th! She also tried out for cheerleading squad and made that too! She doesn’t want it announced in local media but I told her I was going to share with you two fab folks! Amazing, huh?

  9. Love your writing Jackie! Acceptance is a wonderful concept although Ed looks slightly crazy! Is the power going to his head?
    I look forward to your posts.

  10. You are such an inspiration to all of us who are 1st Mates to our wonderful Husbands who take on this Amazing and Gratifying Journey… I will heed you message and try to be a better mate! Warm Breezes and Calm Seas. CindyB

  11. What a great adventure! Two questions? When will the book come out and who do you want to play and Ed in the movie version?

    1. 🙂 Those are great ideas Mitch. People tell me Ed looks like some famous actor, but I can’t remember the name? Something about the beard! Hope all is well with you so great to get your message!

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