Monthly Archives: April 2024

The making of a 1st-mate, Day 23 of America’s Great Loop

It is day 23 of at least 365 on America’s Great Loop. At this  point, with bruised arms and sore elbows, I am a bonafide first-mate and have learned to take orders. Every day, I assist my captain. I check diesel levels, I peer intently through binoculars looking for Intracoastal triangles, announce distant shoaling, man the lines, drop the fenders, and sometimes even take the wheel.  I have accepted my fate ~ I am not in charge.

Checking diesel levels for my captain.

However, Captian Ed and I have re-bonded through my acceptance of this simple but profound concept, one I never did accept  in the 20 years of our marriage. I’ve decided it’s OK for now. 🙂

Life has changed. Every day chores like doing laundry, fixing a leaky sink, or vacuuming have become endearing. Kind of like being in college again. Serious decisions have given way to listening and discussion. We are becoming a team. How long this new peace-pact will last, I am not certain. But on our 55 foot trawler, “Finito,”we live day by day; it’s slow and beautiful.

Happy at Myrtle Beach Yacht Club after successfully backing into a slip.
Doing laundry, Hilton Head, SC.

The low country of the Carolina coast is defined by marshlands and the American history of the Deep South. These marshes fed the riches of cotton, indigo and rice plantations. The Gullah culture of former slaves resonates, though the area is now covered with golf courses and subdivisions.

Emancipation Oak, southern states, Beaufort, SC.

The marshes themselves are habitat to hundreds of aquatic organisms, birds, and animal species. Connected to countless river estuaries, they are the nursery to the sea. Polluted stormwater, groundwater contamination, and developmental habitat destruction have negatively affected some areas. To the untrained eye, like mine, it looks relatively healthy. Of course, turn of the century dredging of the Intracoastal Waterway created our “Great Loop” roadway.

The American Great Loopers Cruisers Association shows the path of the “great loop.”
Marshland, Beaufort, SC.
Fantastic Waccanaw River osprey nests! 

A house along the marsh, Georgetown, SC.

Since my last post Ed and I have traveled from Hilton Head to Port Royal; Port Royal to Charleston; Charleston to Georgetown; Georgetown to Myrtle Beach; Myrtle Beach to Southport; Southport to Wrightsville; and Wrightsville to Swansboro.

My uncle reminded me that my Henderson ancestors traveled up North Carolina’s Cape Fear River where they settled near Campbelton, the same Scottish settlement name as the town they’d left in the 1770s. I picture them taking a ferry through the reed filled marshes, or a cypress black river, the tides washing away the hardships of the old-world and bringing hope for life anew.

Boro Low County Kitchen, Cape Fear River, Swansboro, NC.

13 days in on America’s Great Loop

American Great Loop Cruisers Association

Ed and I are 13 days in on America’s Great Loop. 300 miles of 5600. I have stopped wearing makeup. I’ve worn the same clothes for at least 10 days. I’ve taken three showers. I’ve washed my hair twice. I’ve gotten pretty good at “manning” the lines and pulling up or putting down the giant fenders. I’m sleeping better than I ever recall. So far, it’s been an absolutely amazing and challenging trip.

I am the first mate. That means that I have to do what the captain, my husband Ed, tells me to. This is challenging. And we have had a few heated discussions. We have with us our 12 year old Belgium Shepherd, Luna, and our 3 year old cat, Okee. They are great company and Okee is definitely now a therapy cat.

Ed resting with Luna & Luna
We use headphones when docking. They are called “marriage savers.” Fernandina, Amelia Island.

This boat trip is supposed to last about one year. Ed retired, and I was not reconfirmed by the Senate for the South Florida Water Management District governing board, nor reappointed by the Governor. Thus, this long journey seemed a perfect thing to do. Time for Ed and I to spend some quality time together. As we all know, “time is of the essence.”

So far, our trip has been Stuart to Vero, Vero to Titusville, Titusville to Ponce Inlet, Ponce Inlet to Saint Augustine, Saint Augustine to Fernandina, Fernandina to Jekyll Island, Jekyll Island to Sunbury, and Sunbury to Isle of Hope. Today we are headed to Beaufort, South Carolina,  hopefully, weather is to arrive and last for two or three days.

“Wow these crab traps are close together aren’t they?” Sorry we’re approaching Savannah. We just went past Thunderbolt Marina and these crab traps are like, oh my gosh, they’re like you have to weave through them!

The wildlife has been wonderful. My favorite so far are the white pelicans sitting marsh side in groups of 25 or so. They have the second largest wingspan of any bird in North America 9-10 feet. Only the California Condor’s is larger.

White Pelicans have been in Florida, Georgia and South Carolina.

The trees too have also been an inspiration. Oaks, slash pines, red cedar, and magnolia. Their births holding the rings of hundreds of years. I look up into their highest branches ridiculously trying to capture their spirt within the rectangle of my iPhone.

I’ve been trying to learn about water issues and I have. Most in Georgia are caused by industrial point source pollution and none have been as tragic as the 100 year destruction of the St. Lucie River. Discharges from Lake Okeechobee should be considered point source pollution too.

The serpentine waterways of north Florida and especially Georgia have been just mind boggling . The tide is like a slow breath through the marsh purifying and renewing the ecosystem – oysters, crabs, frogs, alligators, mink, otter and many species of fish. The highest tidal range has been 8 feet!

Lover’s Oak, Brunswick, GA. Over 300 years old 🌳
Slash pines, Sunbury.

I’m hoping that this peregrination teaches me something about myself, my marriage, and the history and environmental issues of our great country. Then when I return home, I know I will be renewed.

But I am paying attention.

I noticed yesterday that Governor DeSantis came to a Cove Road Walgreens to sign off on a shoplifting legislative bill with harsher penalties for those who steal. I was surprised he didn’t also mention Martin County’s recent “Lost Spring” due to discharges from Lake Okeechobee. That was stealing too. While I’m on the subject, there was not a peep from Senator Gayle Harrell, or Representatives Overdorf or Snyder about the Lake O discharges either. I suppose Tallahassee leadership has asked that “we just not talk about it.” God forbid…

Sunbury, Georgia.
Marsh
“Captain”
1700s chapel, Isle of Hope.

 

The Lost Towering Pine Forests of St. Lucie

Gigantic old-growth slash pines, with all the glory to be called “longleaf pine,” stood right here in the St. Lucie River region of Stuart, Palm, City, Indiantown, Jensen, and Hobe Sound. Eagles built massive nests in their crowns. Fox squirrels as large as cats leapt through their branches. Black bears stopped to scratch their backs against wide and furrowed bark. Stealthy panthers and long-legged bobcats silently crept over pine needles in search of turkeys, deer, and wild hog. The endless knocking of the red-cockaded woodpecker echoed throughout until humankind’s insatiable demand for lumber and turpentine brought these forests down.

“Towering pines near Stuart, the Hearste Track. Mills start cutting soon.” Florida Photographic Concern, ca. 1923, courtesy of Bette J. Tootsie Kindberg.

My mother, historian Sandra Thurlow, recently has been amazed by her friend Tootsie’s Facebook pictures! I am sharing more today. In her research, mom also found a column of the late Ernie Lyons, award winning Stuart News editor and writer from 1931-1975. His words pulled from the dust give new life to what once was all around us-something once so wonderful that we don’t even know existed anymore – the great pine forests. As a certified tree hugger, with a tear in my eye, I share Tootsie’s local historic Hill photos together with mom’s discovery of Ernie Lyon’s column. Together they tell the story of our lost forests, a story we must never forget.

Part 1.
Part 2.
Part 3.
Part 4.
“In Johnston & McNeil’s pine forest of one hundred and thirty square miles of fine trees, near Stuart, Fla. Others own still larger adjoining holdings, amount them being the Southern States Land & Timber Company.” The remarkable photographs in this post were taken by Florida Photographic Concern, of Ft. Pierce, Florida ca. 1923. They were shared courtesy of Mrs. Bette J. Tootsie Kindberg a friend of my mothers. These photographs were among many included in planning and selling the idea of Stuart’s Deepwater Harbor that I wrote of in my last blog post.
“Some of the seven thousand barrels of resin at Johnston & McNeil’s turpentine camp, sixteen miles south of Stuart, near the great St. Lucie Control Canal .”
“Another view of Johnston & McNeil’s resin, at camp near Stuart, Fla.”
“Johnston… “ These virgin slash pine forests were under storied by palmetto and wire grass creating a wildlife sanctuary of food and protection.

According to “The Atlas of Florida,” 1992: “Pines, especially long leaf and slash, accounted for three-fourths of the state’s original 25-30 million acres of forests.

A fox squirrel, courtesy of Dr, Gary Goforth.