Category Archives: Chesapeake

Finito and the One Big Beautiful Bay

Belhaven, NC waiting for the nor’easter…

Satellite compilation of Chesapeake Bay. https://www.usgs.gov/media/images/landsat-mosaic-chesapeake-bay

The winds have finally calmed, the water has lost its anger, and from horizon to sky are long silver clouds that appear to be stuck in place. Captain Ed and I have been docked at Grand Manor Marina in Belhaven, North Carolina for the past six days.

Belhaven lies about 150 miles south of Norfolk, Virginia. We were making our way back to Stuart when Ed and I sought refuge from the massive nor’easter. Belhaven is the perfect place other than the pesky flies that find their way into the boat no matter how hard we try to keep the doors shut. I pride myself on not killing any of God’s creatures, but over the past six days I have became a lunatic with a flyswatter.

Finito cruised Chesapeake Bay for exactly one month. This was by coincidence and not by design. I prepared by re-rereading James Michener’s novel Chesapeake but I still wasn’t finished when we arrived in the bay. Completed in St. Michael’s, Maryland, the book again brought the history of this magnificent part of America into focus: the native people, the religiously persecuted Europeans who immigrated here, the pirates, the slaves, the wildlife that was brought to the brink of extinction, and the lands that sustain, but storms can bring crumbling into to the bay.

My favorite characters, besides the geese, were the Paxmores, Quakers, who became expert ship builders and leaders in the anti-slavery movement. The family evolves through the 1600s to the 1970s terminating in the character of disgraced Pusey Paxmore who is part of the Watergate scandal. This character was certainly inspired by the fall of President Richard Nixon who was raised a Quaker, as was Michener.

How does this happen? How do we lose direction even when we have a compass right in our hand? How is the destruction we inflict upon Nature symbolic of this? How can we do better?

These are the questions the trip made me think about, all the while having another Finito journey with Ed. But there are also lighter things. It has been quite fun watching Diesel grow up on the boat and watching Okee rule-the-roost. Whether the animals or us, there is certainly a closeness that occurs while traveling on Finito that is difficult to achieve while living at home. Nature’s rhythms help support this and become the fabric of every life. Perhaps most important, Ed and I have become very comfortable operating, communicating, and docking.

We will be leaving Belhaven, tomorrow and one of the places we will visit for the second time is Southport, SC just 120 miles south of here. A few weeks ago, an active shooter took his victims via boat in a waterfront restaurant Ed and I have visited in this tiny, sweet old fishing town.

No matter where one is, there is no escaping the world.

Finito’s journey has been both educational and beautiful. The bay borders both Maryland and Virginia; sometimes it’s hard to tell what state you’re in! Its enormous watershed drains multiple states. I’ll talk about that later, but first the fun part.

~The Chesapeake Bay journey has included Yorktown, (York River); Deltaville, (Piankatank River); Colonial Beach and Washington DC, (Potomac River); Solomons, (Patuxent River); Annapolis, (Severn River) and St. Michaels (Miles River.) St Michaels was the sole eastern stop and lies in on the Eastern Shore featured in Michener’s novel.

A page from Super Looper showing various stops boaters can take along C. Bay.

~First things first: WATER QUALITY

The Chesapeake Bay Program created, in 1983, falls directly under the United State’s Clean Water Act (Sec 117) and was established with a mandate to restore and protect Chesapeake Bay’s watershed spanning seven states: New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, Delaware and the District of Columbia. The Chesapeake Bay Regulatory Program provides funding to improve accountability assessment and enforcement programs.

Our Indian River Lagoon National Estuary Program in Florida, by contrast, is an outgrowth of the Environmental Protection Agency’s National Estuary Program created in 1987 under the Clean Water Act. There are 28 Nation Estuary Programs today; the Indian River Lagoon Program was established in 1990. Because it’s part of the National Estuary Program, its mandate is non-regulatory, but science-based.

Both programs are slowly making headway and both struggle to meet nutrient reduction goals of phosphorous and nitrogen. The IRL’s algae blooms and seagrass crashes are linked to an overabundance of nutrients, as are the millions of sea nettles – jellyfish floating throughout Chesapeake Bay’s waters. Ed and I saw hundreds, maybe thousands of jellyfish just about everywhere we visited in the Bay.

Nutrient pollution is the leading cause of water quality problems and is linked primarily to agricultural and urban runoff, it’s a frustrating predicament as it is non-point and coming from “everywhere.” The answer? Getting involved and voting in elected officials who care to tackle this issue.

Jelly fish in the water, St. Michaels, MD.

THE JOURNEY

Okee and Diesel competing for counter space, Chesapeake Bay 2025.

I. NORFOLK, VA, Elizabeth River (Tidewater Marina)

Ed entering the Elizabeth River, Norfolk. VA, with Diesel at his feet.

We entered Chesapeake Bay from the south entering Norfolk, Virginia’s Elizabeth River. The military’s presence on the river goes back to 1767 making the Port of Virginia older than the USA itself.

Naval Station Norfolk is the largest naval complex in the world. The river’s shoreline appears void of even a blade of marsh grass and is surrounded by multiple, massive naval and industrial facilities.

Even with the shore to shore industry, bottlenose dolphins greeted us. According to the Elizabeth River Scorecard, finally wildlife has been returning after decades of restoration efforts. While I enjoyed watching the playful dolphins, I could hear Ed talking on the radio to a war ship. Strange!

II. YORKTOWN, VA, York River (Riverwalk Landing Marina)

Ed and Diesel sit before the 98 foot tall Yorktown Victory Monument – this monument can be seen many miles away.

Chesapeake Bay measures about 200 miles long and has a maximum of 35 miles across. Its multiple incoming rivers provide great stopping points for boaters. The first place we visited after passing through Norfolk was Yorktown, Virginia, on the York River. People were swimming in a designated area by the shoreline and when I read about the river’s health it was better than others, but facing tremendous development pressure.

The town itself is a museum. The streets still have the same names as they did during the Battle of Yorktown that determined our nation’s independence from Great Britain. The local museums and historic buildings are outstanding and bring this history to life. Such as the humiliating account of Britain’s General Cornwallis and his troops who attempted escape as they desperately rowed across river. To be docked upon this place of such history was quite remarkable.

Yorktown w/ General Washington, Commander in Chief; Major General Lafayette, Continental Army; Lt. General Rochambeau, French Army; Admiral de Grasse, French Navy – Battle of Yorktown 1781 -American Revolution’s deciding battle.

III. DELTAVILLE, VA, Pianakatank River (Fishing Bay Marina)

IV. COLONIAL BEACH, Potomic River (Colonial Beach Yacht Club)

After eating the best crab cakes in all of Chesapeake Bay, Ed and I left Deltaville, Virginia, an unspoiled town cradled in a beautiful cove of the Piankatank River.

A family of Mute Swans in the Potomac River.

Colonial Beach, Virginia, along the Potomac, followed. It is the birthplace of a boy who loved the river, George Washington.

Today’s Voorhees Natural Preserve provides sanctuary for birds and wildlife. One morning I awoke at sunrise. I was out on the bow when I heard a noise I had never witnessed. It sounded like a heavy whistling falling wind. And then I saw it. A huge swan! So heavy it could hardly fly! It made its way acoss the river and I knew I would never forget that moment. Swans, geese and ducks once here in the millions were almost eradicated by the long-guns that hunters used, unregulated, for decades. The birds’ comeback and the regulation on hunting practices is an inspiration.

V. WASHINGTON, DC Potomac River (Capital Yacht Club)

Mount Vernon, George and Martha Washington’s home, lies on the Potomac River just around the bend from Washington DC.

The Washington Monument as seen from the Potomac River

The United State’s Capitol as seen from Finito.

Ed and Diesel on the stairs of the Jefferson Monument, Washington, DC.

Ed at Washington Monument with National Guard walking past.

Entering Washington, DC was an emotional experience not only because it was a slow, dramatic view approaching by boat, but because of this unsettling time in American history. Right away, we saw diverse citizenry and the presence of the National Guard. Ed and I walked Diesel to the Jefferson Memorial. Diesel always takes the edge off things.

The Municipal Fish Market (1805), America’s oldest continuously operating out door market, was right there. It was incredible to watch, but I doubted they were selling Potomac crabs since the Potomac Conservancy reports that the river is not safe for swimming, nor the eating of fish. The marina’s water looked terrible with floating trash, foamy water, and excess vegetation.

Highlights included The Capital Mall and the Lincoln Memorial. Later we visited the Portrait Gallery, and the National Museum of African American History and Culture. I must say, the food was outstanding, including the food truck hot dogs!

The Municipal Fish Market at The Warf is the oldest continuously operating open-air fish market in the US, est. 1805.

VI. SOLOMON’S ISLAND, VA, Patuxent River (Calvert’s Marina)

Solomon’s lies in Maryland along the Patuxent River, the longest and deepest entirely within the state of Maryland. In its hey-day the late 1800s, Solomon’s was named for a man who opened a profitable oyster cannery. Those days are long gone. Today tourism dominates this quaint retreat.

The Patuxent River Keeper, and the local museum tell the story of abundance, and eventual over-harvesting. This is a familiar story throughout the United States including our St.Lucie River and IRL.

VII. ANNAPOLIS, MD, Severin River (Annapolis Yacht Basin)

Annapolis, the capital of Maryland is a wonderful city, although I’d say they need to work on more green space and less asphalt. Right away, Ed and I found the Irish Pub that we had visited last time, Galway Bay.

The Naval Academy, the remarkably intact historic city, and historic state capitol are hard to beat. One could spend a lifetime sailing and studying American history.

We missed my Uncle Russ’ friend, Dave from the Naval Academy, (both Class of ’58) who traveled with us last year on America’s Great Loop, but he came and visited us in Solomons. Terrific!

Annapolis, the capital of Maryland, lies on the Severin River.

The Maryland State House is the oldest state capitol in continuous legislative use completed in 1779.

George Washington famously resigned from military service at the Maryland State House, Annapolis, MD on December 23, 1783.

The Naval Academy lies at the heart of downtown.

Annapolis grad, Class of ’58, Dave Banner visits

~Road trip to Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. For me, the best part of our visit to Annapolis was driving to Philadelphia, Pennsylvania to visit my niece Nat who is getting her PhD. in Biomedical Engineering at the University of Pennsylvania. She and her roommate live about thirteen blocks away from Independence Hall, the birthplace of America! What a place to call home! It was a wonderful visit.

**Independence Hall** where both the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution of the US were debated and adopted. A World Heritage Site since 1979.

JTL, Nat, Lauren and Ed enjoyed a great meal just blocks away!

ST. MICHAELS, MD (St. Michael’s Marina)

St. Michaels, Maryland, was the only city we visited on the Eastern Shore.

This adorable little town with roots in the 1600s is living history. It was here where James Michener chose to research and write his famous novel Chesapeake. It was from this region that abolitionist Frederick Douglass ran to freedom in Philadelphia just across the bay.

St. Michael’s gets its name from an Episcopal Church that predates the town, but Ed and I decide to visit a Methodist Church service as it was dog friendly. Diesel was not on his best behavior but since the sermon was on patience, Ed and I just looked at each other and let it go. Fun!

Sea level rise is a major issue, especially on Chesapeake Bay’s eastern side. During our visit both docks and the shoreline areas of the town were partially underwater. Locals did not make a big deal out it, and when I thought how this area was once a marsh, it really did not seem a surprise. All this water mixed with storms means erosion…

Even Michener’s book written in 1978 ends with Devon, the lands of the ruling family, crumbing over time and then falling into the bay after a hurricane. The novel begins with a Native American determining not to build on this same land hundreds of years earlier because he could see the instability. A foreshadowing…

St. Luke’s Methodist Church 1874 originally 1781.

They advertised dogs allowed so Ed and figured it would be a good outing for us and for Diesel!

Rev. Curtis Ehrgott’s sermon focused on patience, just what Ed and I needed to hear. Diesel whimpered and jumper the whole time.

Frederick Douglas lived in St. Michaels for 3 years – there is a walking tour of his life.

Ed carries Diesel to Finito as his legs are too short to stay above water.

**Geese** fly over in a V formation – October – May Chesapeake Bay!

Little fish swimming in circles were everywhere!

Since St. Michael’s we’ve headed south on the bay through Solomon’s, Deltaville and Norfolk. We are now 150 miles south of Norfolk in Belhaven waiting out the weather. Ed’s making cookies and I’m swatting flies! It’s just another beautiful day!

*Thank you to Ed for helping me with this post 🙂

Getting there is half the fun, Chesapeake!

Getting to Chesapeake Bay has turned out to take a bit longer than I anticipated, but that’s OK. It all about the journey. We are having a great time. We left Stuart, Florida on August 8, 2025 and today we are on our way to Coinjock, North Carolina. We have traveled about 800 miles and have just over 100 more to arrive at our destination, Chesapeake Bay. Last time I blogged, Finito was docked at Amelia Island and our puppy Diesel had become “the mayor.”

Finito docked along the marshes near Sunbury Crab Company, Sunbury, GA.

Since Amelia Island, we have stopped at Jekyll Island, GA; Sunbury, GA; Isle of Hope, GA; Daufuskie Island, SC; Hilton Head, SC; Beaufort, SC; Charleston, SC; Georgetown, SC; Myrtle Beach, SC; Southport, NC; Swanboro, NC; Beaufort, NC; Oriental, NC; and Bellhaven, NC.

If I had to choose running themes they would be: salt marshes, wide beaches, historic churches, buzzing cicadas, and a reverberating wake from Sherman’s “March to the Sea.” Thankfully many of the ancient oak trees still stand and much of the Deep South today is bustling.

Ed walks Diesel under an ancient oak, Isle of Hope/Beaufort, SC.

Debra Green sells beautiful Mount Pleasant Gullah hand woven sweetgrass baskets..

Historic Marker, Daufuskie Island lies right before Hilton Head.

St. Helena’s Anglican Church, built in 1724, Charleston, SC.

The waters here are alive. Winds, tides and strong currents push through extensive marshes — many, once rice paddies tended by slaves.

Certainly, in specific areas of Georgia and South and North Carolina, there is water contamination, mostly from industry. But unlike the St. Lucie River/ Indian River Lagoon, a combination of tides and marshes regularly cleanses.

Here, one finds massive estuaries and important bird migratory flyways such as Port Royal Sound between Hilton Head and Beaufort, SC; and the Neuse River near Oriental, SC. – which is at its mouth is one of the widest rivers in the United States.

It hasn’t been all Intracoastal or river: From Charleston to Georgetown, Ed insisted on going “outside” in the Atlantic Ocean due to shallow readings inland. I agreed, so long as I could see land and know which way to swim in case Finito stared sinking. Along the way, Okee barfed, but other than that, the wave action wasn’t too bad.

Towns and cities have included old fishing villages, former plantations lands, and incredible historic cities that now attract tourists and modern industries. In fact, many, especially the young, are moving this way. For instance, my niece Evie and her boyfriend Clay live and work in Mount Pleasant/Charleston, South Carolina. They love it there and it was so wonderful to see them and meet their rescue dog, Tiki.

Great American Egret in marsh, Charleston, NC.

Finito is a 55 ” Fleming with a 5″draft. Sunbury, GA.

Some estuaries are enormous. Port Royal Sound, mentioned above, lies between Hilton Head and Beaufort, South Carolina and is one of the largest estuaries on the Southeast Coast of the United States. Its salt marshes are key.

According to a Prichard’s Island Research & Living Shores Coalition sign, South Carolina has more salt marsh than any other state on the Atlantic Coast. Half the salt marsh on the east coast is in South Carolina and half of that lies in Beaufort County at Port Royal Sound. Of course, salt marshes serve as nurseries and habitat for numerous species- an entire food chain. Unfortunately, our Indian River Lagoon has seen up to an 85% reduction in salt marsh coverage.

Ed and I with my neice Evie Flaugh and her boyfriend Clay who we visited in Mount Pleasant, part of Charleston.

Ed and Diesel in front of the South Carolina Society, established 1737. Charleston, SC.

Diesel took his first horse drawn carriage tour in Charleston, SC.

As one would imagine, boating requires more attention in these waters! Charts can’t alway reflect sudden movements of sand. A couple of days ago, while cruising in the Intracoastal Waterway, Finito ran aground in Bogue Sound between Swansboro and Beaufort, NC. Before that, near Southport, we navigated the Cape Fear River and today on our way to Coinjock it will be Albemarle Sound– a body of water that was as rough as an angry ocean last time we went through while on America’s Great Loop.

So before I close, are you curious? 🙂

In case you are, here’s my running aground in Bogue Sound story…

Finito has a five foot draft——

~It was an extremely windy, sunny, gorgeous day and though in the channel, Ed and I sat in the pilot house and watched as Finito’s depth finder slowly went from 12 to 7 feet. And then to 4.2 feet in what seemed a matter of seconds. We had just been discussing how wind could exacerbate the shallowness and we were watching and holding our breath. But when it happens, you still can’t believe it!

Our conversation went something like this:

Bogue Sound, NC and surrounding waters, on our way to Beaufort, NC.

“Isn’t North Carolina where we got caught in the current on the Loop that time and humiliatingly smacked the dock losing a few fenders in front of all those people?” I inquired.

Ed was not amused as tried to assess the situation.

“Beaufort!” he barked.

“Beaufort, again! We’re on our way there now. I can’t believe it!”

I walked to the stern listening to the engines as Ed unsuccessfully tried to back out. I hollered: “You know sometimes when you try to force things you make them worse!”

Ed ignored me and kept doing the exact same thing.

I stuck my head in the pilot house. “I’m putting Okee in the bedroom.” I said. “This could get hairy! “I could hear Diesel’s loud barking.“Be sure to keep the doors closed so Diesel doesn’t jump overboard!”

In high stress situations, Okee is taken to the bedroom.

Ed waits for Sea Tow in Bogue Sound, NC.

My job was once off to let loose their lines.

As I carried Okee I could hear Ed on the phone with Sea Tow. He matter-a- factly gave coordinates. After I placed Okee on the bed I regrouped and tried to be a good first mate clearing the decks.

Sea Tow arrived, I noticed they never asked any questions, they just helped. This is what Ed always says he wishes I would do. I thought about this. And then, once again, I couldn’t help myself.

“Captian Ed, would you please ask the men if there are more sandbars along the way?”

Ed stared at me and there was silence until I heard a young kind southern voice: “It’s deepest near the red channel markers ma’am…”

“So we should steer left. Thank you so much,” I said shooting Ed my most charming glance.

Ed looked at me sternly, then smiled. Getting there is half the fun, isn’t it? We were underway —leaning port side—- to Beaufort and then Oriental…

Blue Crabs! https://www.fisheries.noaa.gov/species/blue-crab

Ed tires a local “dragon drink “in Oriental, NC.

Next time I write, we’ll be in Chesapeake Bay!

Chesapeake or bust!

The water has called once again and Ed and I are underway. This time our trawler journey will be to Chesapeake Bay. We have new puppy, Diesel, as we lost our beloved Belgium Shepard, Luna, last year while we were on America’s Great Loop. Okee, our beautiful 17 pound cat, will be making the trip too.

After our Great Loop adventure it was wonderful to return to Stuart, but boating has become a bit of a calling especially now that we are retired. We chose Chesapeake Bay because while passing through on the Loop we loved it most and decided to return. The Chesapeake Bay is the largest estuary in the United States, its watershed extends into states of Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New York and our federal capital, Washington D.C. Just magnificent!

While on the Loop I read James A. Michener’s CHESAPEAKE, and Ed and I enjoyed talking about the estuary’s long documented history and the spectacular wildlife. In fact the huge, loud, honking, close-nit Canada Geese, widely featured throughout the novel, became the symbol of our Loop journey. And then of course, Chesapeake Bay is a poster child for climate change and a leader in restoration attempts that predate National Estuary Programs such as our Indian River Lagoon. Chesapeake has much to teach about improving our impaired waters and the power of cooperation.

Canada Geese were sacred to the native people of the Chesapeake Bay area as survival depended on their coming. Later the European setters with new technology almost hunted them to extinction, but they have “miraculously” recovered.

To get to Chesapeake Bay Finito is traveling north along the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. This waterway is a combination of natural and man-made features and in Florida dates back to the 1800s. The Indian River Lagoon is connected through the Haulover Canal to the Mosquito Lagoon that is connected to the Halifax River. Following is the Matanzas River in St. Augustine where the water is the prettiest yet with massive currents and powerful tides flushing from the inlet. There is even coral life on the dock with sponges, and small brightly colored fish swimming around!

This water can also be dangerous. I dreaded docking this time recalling an experience when our boat got caught in strong currents and almost crashed into someone’s very large yacht. It happened in a second. The current takes you. A total loss of control. Ed and I stood open mouthed aware that with much luck we slammed against a piling and were able to avoid disaster. We made it just fine this time!

Power plant near Titusville on the Indian River Lagoon.

NASA’s Vehicle Assembly Building rises along the IRL.

Dolphins love Finito’s wake! NASA’s Assembly Building behind them.

Haulover Canal connecting the Indian River Lagoon to the Mosquito Lagoon. I saw many ospreys, pelicans, and an alligator. Reports have seagrass returning. Manatees in the upper IRL in the recent years died from starvation.

Bridge over Haulover Canal connecting IRL to the Mosquito Lagoon.

Water at entrance of Mosquito Lagoon looking algae like.

From Stuart to Titusville I thought the waters of the Indian River Lagoon looked mostly milky and dark. We are told by the water management districts that seagrass is retuning, maybe so, but we have to do better. Even the undeveloped Mosquito Lagoon, part of the Canaveral National Seashore, looked greenish as you can see in the photo above. This cannot be good water quality.

Along the way we visited Cocoa Village one of my favorite historic places along the Indian River. It is the state headquarters of the Florida Historic Society, a place my mother and father visited many times. Cocoa Village also has the bragging rights to S.F. Travis one of the oldest hardware stores in Florida! Its historic marker gives great insight into changes along the lagoon.

Florida Historical Society, Cocoa Village, FL

S.F. Travis Company is one of the oldest hardware store in Florida.

We also stopped in Vero where there is an absolutely incredible 5 acre dog park! Diesel made many friends although he did get nipped at once. The irritating, jumping, puppy thing! He is doing well on Finito so far, trying to help Ed with the lines and sometimes torturing Okee with his endless energy.

Diesel on Finito. He does not go on this pad. Prefers a walk to real grass!

Diesel helping with lines – head set — AI via Ed!

Okee? For now she is wearing her pheromone stress reliever collar and reading Chesapeake.

Incredible wind blown oaks are everywhere. Homes are nestled within — most saving the trees.

At Ponce Inlet Diesel walked to the beach! Very happy to stretch his short legs!!! Note sand renourishement piled very high.

Ponce Inlet just north of New Smyrna Beach is another gem with a maritime forest of windswept oaks and pretty sand dunes. Diesel enjoyed a walk to the beach and watching the “frozen” rabbits but once to the Atlantic he could only look– no dogs allowed! The beach was piled with sand.

Beach renourishment requires millions of dollars each year, only to be taken out to sea. Barrier islands are meant to work like a conveyor belt turning over on themselves, migrating over time. Development and beach renourishment interfere with this very powerful natural process. Guess who will win?

So — so far we after leaving Stuart, we have visited Vero, Cocoa Village, Ponce Inlet, and St. Augustine. Watching the sun set on this old city, I was reminded that the only constant is change.