The water has called once again and Ed and I are underway. This time our trawler journey will be to Chesapeake Bay. We have new puppy, Diesel, as we lost our beloved Belgium Shepard, Luna, last year while we were on America’s Great Loop. Okee, our beautiful 17 pound cat, will be making the trip too.
After our Great Loop adventure it was wonderful to return to Stuart, but boating has become a bit of a calling especially now that we are retired. We chose Chesapeake Bay because while passing through on the Loop we loved it most and decided to return. The Chesapeake Bay is the largest estuary in the United States, its watershed extends into states of Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, Delaware, Pennsylvania, New York and our federal capital, Washington D.C. Just magnificent!
While on the Loop I read James A. Michener’s CHESAPEAKE, and Ed and I enjoyed talking about the estuary’s long documented history and the spectacular wildlife. In fact the huge, loud, honking, close-nit Canada Geese, widely featured throughout the novel, became the symbol of our Loop journey. And then of course, Chesapeake Bay is a poster child for climate change and a leader in restoration attempts that predate National Estuary Programs such as our Indian River Lagoon. Chesapeake has much to teach about improving our impaired waters and the power of cooperation.
To get to Chesapeake Bay Finito is traveling north along the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. This waterway is a combination of natural and man-made features and in Florida dates back to the 1800s. The Indian River Lagoon is connected through the Haulover Canal to the Mosquito Lagoon that is connected to the Halifax River. Following is the Matanzas River in St. Augustine where the water is the prettiest yet with massive currents and powerful tides flushing from the inlet. There is even coral life on the dock with sponges, and small brightly colored fish swimming around!
This water can also be dangerous. I dreaded docking this time recalling an experience when our boat got caught in strong currents and almost crashed into someone’s very large yacht. It happened in a second. The current takes you. A total loss of control. Ed and I stood open mouthed aware that with much luck we slammed against a piling and were able to avoid disaster. We made it just fine this time!
From Stuart to Titusville I thought the waters of the Indian River Lagoon looked mostly milky and dark. We are told by the water management districts that seagrass is retuning, maybe so, but we have to do better. Even the undeveloped Mosquito Lagoon, part of the Canaveral National Seashore, looked greenish as you can see in the photo above. This cannot be good water quality.
Along the way we visited Cocoa Village one of my favorite historic places along the Indian River. It is the state headquarters of the Florida Historic Society, a place my mother and father visited many times. Cocoa Village also has the bragging rights to S.F. Travis one of the oldest hardware stores in Florida! Its historic marker gives great insight into changes along the lagoon.
We also stopped in Vero where there is an absolutely incredible 5 acre dog park! Diesel made many friends although he did get nipped at once. The irritating, jumping, puppy thing! He is doing well on Finito so far, trying to help Ed with the lines and sometimes torturing Okee with his endless energy.
Okee? For now she is wearing her pheromone stress reliever collar and reading Chesapeake.
Ponce Inlet just north of New Smyrna Beach is another gem with a maritime forest of windswept oaks and pretty sand dunes. Diesel enjoyed a walk to the beach and watching the “frozen” rabbits but once to the Atlantic he could only look– no dogs allowed! The beach was piled with sand.
Beach renourishment requires millions of dollars each year, only to be taken out to sea. Barrier islands are meant to work like a conveyor belt turning over on themselves, migrating over time. Development and beach renourishment interfere with this very powerful natural process. Guess who will win?
So — so far we after leaving Stuart, we have visited Vero, Cocoa Village, Ponce Inlet, and St. Augustine. Watching the sun set on this old city, I was reminded that the only constant is change.
