Monthly Archives: June 2024

Hello Canada! 84 Days into America’s Great Loop

Canadian flag- required flying on Finito!

Captain Ed, Luna, Okee and I have arrived in Kingston, Ontario – Canada! This means we have traveled about 1500 miles since leaving Stuart, Florida. After 84 days, our captain/crew capabilities have improved, but are certainly not perfected.

Kingston is a historic and interesting city full of Canada Geese, Mallard Ducks, and people from all over the world, all raising their children. The water at Confederation Basin Marina is clear. Kingston lies on Lake Ontario at the mouth of the Cataraqui and St. Laurence Rivers. The submerged aquatic vegetation is so thick, it is being removed and piled atop the docks. I have been unable to determine if it is native or partially invasive. Nonetheless, the geese and ducks eat it ravenously!

The population of Kingston is very diverse. The city houses Queens University. The blend of old and new city has a hip and international vibe. There is every imaginable ethnic restaurant. Reading the historic markers makes clear that the community is coming to terms with its difficult Native American history.

Flowers fill the rocks and pots of the city.
Ed & Luna fill the “i.”
On the back of a historical sign about John A. Macdonald, the first Prime Minister of Kingston.
Okee looks out wondering why Luna gets to go and she doesn’t!
Kingston’s Sydenham Street United Church. Built 1851-52. The United Church of Canada is the country’s largest and embraces all people.

Since I last blogged, Ed and I have traveled from upstate New York’s Brewerton to Oswego; Oswego to Clayton; Clayton to Wellesley Island, and Wellesley Islands to Kingston, Ontario.

Ed and I stayed longer than planned in Brewerton. We had significant starboard bow-thruster issues in the Erie Canal and had hoped to get fixed at Winter Haven Marina. After a 12 day visit, we did not. Ed is ready to learn how to handle the boat anyway, and I had the opportunity to study a colony of supersonic barn swallows and their chicks. Also, with time on our hands, Ed and I visited the lands of my family’s mid 1800s teasel growing-Thurlow English heritage: Syracuse and Skaneateles, New York.

My father was born in Syracuse in 1936 and grew up in Liverpool on Onondaga Lake. This five mile long lake, sacred to the Iroquois Confederacy, became polluted by industrial pollution and sewage to the point that by the first half of the twentieth century it was one of the country’s most contaminated waterbodies. My grandfather moved the family to a home on the St. Lucie River in Stuart, Florida in 1952. Little did he know the fate of the Indian River Lagoon. Unlike the St. Lucie, Onondaga Lake has gone from “the butt of one eyed fish jokes” to a lake of beauty, much enjoyed and improved. Let’s hope the St. Lucie River/Indian River Lagoon can do the same.   

Carpenter Falls on beautiful Skaneateles Lake was my father’s favorite. It lies in an old growth Hemlock forest towering above the cliffs of Bear Swamp Creek. My dear father passed away in 2022, but I could clearly envision him standing under the falls since he  could not swim in Onondaga Lake. It must have been a happy place for him and it was a happy place for me that day too.

My father’s boyhood house in Liverpool, NY on Onondaga Lake.
Carpenter Falls on Skaneateles Lake.

Thereafter, Ed and I returned to Brewerton and headed west through locks on the Erie Canal, once rapids or waterfalls, taking Finito north at Three Rivers – where we saw our first swan! Once in the Oswego River it became narrow and quiet and I thought about how my reading had taught me that this river, as all between Lake Ontario and the Hudson River, was the lands of the French and Indian War – that of course included the British. This was a time when commerce was motivated by the slaughter of animals for the fur  trade. Millions and millions of them…

Sometimes history is overwhelming but one can’t close one’s eyes to it. Ed and I were reminded during our visit to Oswego that the city was the ONLY  in the U.S. to accept Jews during WWII. The Safe Haven Holocaust Refugee Shelter Museum/Fort Ontario tells this incredible story.

Oswego River empties into Lake Ontario. Centuries of industry has contaminated both the river and lake. Today it is being improved.
There are many black squirrels in Upstate New York but this has nothing to do with the water!

From Oswego, Captain Ed, “bow-thusterless,” led  Finito through the St. Lawrence River to Clayton, first settled in 1801. It was the main railroad terminus to the 1000 Islands resort region during its heyday of the Gilded Age at the turn of the 20th Century. These rock islands emerge from crystal clear water. Most are forested. 

Here the rich and famous built vacation homes – the most famous being Boldt Castle. Within thirty years, Mr. George Boldt, rose from poor Prussian immigrant to fabulously wealthy proprietor of the Waldorf-Astoria hotel. Boldt abandoned the castle upon the death of his beloved wife for whom he was building this castle. Lovingly reconstructed by the Thousand Island Bridge Authority, today, the castle is open to all as amazing testament to the spirit of the American Dream and of American history.

Boldt Castle, Heart Island, 1000 Islands, 1900-1904, fell into disrepair for over 70 years and is now mostly restored.
Ed and I definitely resorted our love hearing the story of Heart Island-Boldt Castle. To celebrate we had a rare restaurant dinner afterwards at the 1000 Islands Club on Wellesely Island.
Ed looks out into the 1000 Islands, NY. his love Luna, always nearby.
Ironically, once of the great lessons for Ed and I at Boldt Castle was that the chef of the Waldorf-Astoia invented “1000 Islands” salad dressing! Something we had seen our whole lives in the refrigerator with no idea…
Part of New York State Canal System showing Lake Ontario.

 

 

72 Days into America’s Great Loop, Every Waterway Has a Story

Ed relaxes with Luna on our trawler, Finito. The Oneida River is attached to Lakes Oneida and Ontario by the Erie Canal which is attached to the Hudson River.
Half Moon Bay Marina, Croton on the Hudson River, NY.

It’s 72 days since Ed and I began America’s Great Loop and one thing is certain, everyday is an adventure.

After being awestruck by the Statue of Liberty, Ed and I embarked on a portion of the 315 mile long Hudson River. Our destination was Half Moon Bay Marina, named not just for the explorer, but for the ship of 17th century Henry Hudson. Rounding Bear Mountain, the spectacular view of U.S. Military Academy West Point came into view. Ed and I found ourselves standing at attention while looking for remnants of the Continental Army’s iron chain that blocked enemy British ships. The whole scene was amazing.

Hudson River Valley, NY
West Point along the Hudson River, N.Y.

The day prior, Ed and I had driven to West Point, coincidentally the day prior to graduation. The campus was filled with graduates-to-be and their parents. It was a privilege to be there and I was struck by the diversity of the students. “How wonderful I thought.” West Point’s museum had stressed the evolution of curriculum due to sweeping revisions and dramatic developments in science and technology- a far cry from putting a chain across the river…

After our visit, Ed and I grabbed lunch at a nearby Mexican restaurant. I started thinking environment. “Ed, didn’t the Hudson River have pollution issues? It looks so beautiful today,” I casually said while putting hot sauce on my burrito.

“Yeah,” Ed replied, “it was a Superfund site.”

“A Superfund site?” I gasped, almost choking. “Really?”

Between 1947 and 1977 General Electric released 1.3 million pounds of polychlorinated biphenyls into the Hudson River – these PCBs were so toxic they were soon banned in the United States. The EPA ended up classifying 200 miles of the Hudson River a federal Superfund site and the upper river’s prolific fishery was closed. General Electric was not the first to pollute the Hudson River. Long before, the Industrial Revolution had led to plants of many kinds. For over a century iron, steel, dye, textile, tanneries, candle, soap and slaughterhouses spewed waste into the gorgeous river.

Ed and I talked about this for a long time. “Every water has a story,” Ed said. “The industry gave people jobs.” I decided not to argue and our adventure continued taking trawler Finito from Croton-on -the Hudson (Half Moon Bay Marina) to Kingston; Kingston to Albany; Albany to Waterford; Waterford to Amsterdam; Amsterdam to Little Falls; Little Falls to Sylvan Beach; and Sylvan Beach to Brewerton not far from Lake Ontario.

Hudson River Valley
Erie Canal connects to Hudson River at Troy, NY.

Looking at the map, beginning east at Troy, Ed and I began our travels west along the Erie Canal through a series of 35 locks. It is at Troy that the Hudson River meets the Erie Canal. What a work out!

First completed in 1825, with an elevation of 571 feet above sea level, the canal was the first navigable waterway connecting the Atlantic Ocean and the Great Lakes. It brought massive economic success, as always, at the expense of rivers such as the Mohawk in Little Falls. The tiny hamlet once considered “the most beautiful,” had her waterfalls blown up to create her portion of the lock system- the most famous- Lock Number 17 that has a whopping  40 feet difference. 

So far Ed and I have gone through 22 locks and are sitting at another marina, Winter Harbor along the Oneida River. The adventure and our education continues…

Little Falls along the Erie Canal, NY.
New Croton Dam along the Croton River, NY. Water supply for NYC.
Okee is reading the book I just finished, Chesapeake. Every waterway tells a story! The story of America.