Ed and I are 105 days into America’s Great Loop. After traversing over 2000 miles, a fellow looper asked: “How long have you been gone from your home port in Stuart?” “Three months,” I replied. “How much longer will you be traveling?” “Seven more months,” Ed yelled from the pilot house – a sobering reminder that Captain and First Mate are not even half way.
Since I last wrote, our trawler Finito has gone from Kingston to Trenton; Trenton to Frankfort; Frankfort to Cambellford; Campbellford to Hastings; Hastings to Peterborough; Peterborough to Buckhorn; Buckhorn to Bobcaygeon; Bobcaygeon to Kirkwood; and Kirkwood to Orillia.
We have been motoring along the 240 mile Trent-Severn Waterway, a National Historic Site of Canada. Constructed from 1833 through 1920, the zig-zagging waterway connects a series of lakes in central Ontario linking Georgian Bay and Lake Huron to Lake Ontario. The waterway contains 37 conventional locks, two of the worlds highest hydraulic lift locks, and concludes with the “Big Chute,” a marine railway that transports one’s boat, out of water, over a height of 60 feet – the only one of its kind still in use in North America!
Along the way there are villages, cities, and breathtaking scenery. I celebrated my 60th birthday on the Trans -Severn while in “Campbellford.” Here Ed saved a drowning pigeon, we had a romantic dinner on the Trent River, and I learned that when the word “ford” is used it means there was once a land bridge, a place where horses and people could cross the river. These shoals have been dredged and replaced by modern day bridges. My favorite stay though was on the downwall of Kirkfield’s lock 36, totally remote. I sent family at home a photo texting: “Where we slept last night – just us and the fireflies.” My clever brother Todd wrote back adding Sasquatch: “Are you sure you were alone?” he wrote. We all got a big laugh and then I wondered…
Indigenous people, in Canada referred to as “First Nations,” and fur-trading Europeans following animal trails roamed this area in the 17th Century, pulling their canoes over portages. Later saw mills, water power gave birth to larger villages and eventually cities. By the 1920s, dredging, canals, dams, and locks replacing waterfalls and rapids and let’s not forget purposeful flooding created a navigable system. Today this Trent – Severn Waterway is a world famous destination for recreational boaters.
Locks, locks, locks -Lock-a Rama- one after another, some double, some going up, some going down. The sun beating down so intensely that I started using an umbrella for shade. At the beginning of the lock journey, still bow-thrusterless, Ed and I were faltering.
A gentleman in front of us called out: “Why don’t you put your wife on the bow rather than mid-ship?” Ed and I followed direction and from there on out Finito swung to the wall perfectly. At lock 20 a water pump blew bringing Finito’s starboard engine to a halt. We knew there was no way we could navigate the remainder of the trip on one engine. Luckily our next stop was Peterborough, a large city. Within in a couple of days and the with direction of friends Finito was repaired.
Locks take time and I remain no expert on the waterways of the area but it is clear the altering of Nature’s wetlands and waters have had repercussions. Inside the locks algae and invasive zebra mussels coat the walls. Upon approach, submerged aquatic vegetation (SAV) is almost out of control in many areas.
Just like the Indian River Lagoon with all its problems, there remain many beautiful areas. Some lakes are clear and hold many bird species. In Lake Simone I saw at least 50 common loons! Eastern Kingbirds were prevalent in the gorgeous wild flower area along the canals. Turtles are a familiar sight, as are of course the Canada Geese, called “cobra-chickens” by the locals. The geese are so called for their aggressive manner and hissing with their tongues out when protecting their young. I admire this. They are survivors.
My favorite has been learning about the swans. So beautiful! Tundra swans that breed in Alaska and northern Canada are native -holding their necks straight while mute swans, the kind you see in Batman movies, gracefully curve their necks and were introduced from Europe. July 1st was Canada Day, and as the fireworks were blasting, I took a photograph of a pair of native tundra swans headed towards shore. We are seeing more and more swans of both types as we continue on the trip.
Today, Ed and I are in Orillia almost at the end of the Trent -Severn. These lands like all were once the historic home of Indigenous people who fished here in one of North America’s oldest human developments – the Mnjikanning Fish Weirs between Couchiching and Simcoe lakes. I look forward to learning more about these people and how glorious the lands, waters, and wildlife were during their era and how to do our best to return so today.
Today I get to enjoy these lands as a tourist. Ed and I are grateful for this. We are also grateful some of the new friends – that will become lifelong friends- we have met along the way and for Luna and Okee who are keeping us company on our journey. Get ready kids! Tomorrow, the Big Chute!
