Ed and I are 105 days into America’s Great Loop. After traversing over 2000 miles, a fellow looper asked: “How long have you been gone from your home port in Stuart?” “Three months,” I replied. “How much longer will you be traveling?” “Seven more months,” Ed yelled from the pilot house – a sobering reminder that Captain and First Mate are not even half way.
Since I last wrote, our trawler Finito has gone from Kingston to Trenton; Trenton to Frankfort; Frankfort to Cambellford; Campbellford to Hastings; Hastings to Peterborough; Peterborough to Buckhorn; Buckhorn to Bobcaygeon; Bobcaygeon to Kirkwood; and Kirkwood to Orillia.
We have been motoring along the 240 mile Trent-Severn Waterway, a National Historic Site of Canada. Constructed from 1833 through 1920, the zig-zagging waterway connects a series of lakes in central Ontario linking Georgian Bay and Lake Huron to Lake Ontario. The waterway contains 37 conventional locks, two of the worlds highest hydraulic lift locks, and concludes with the “Big Chute,” a marine railway that transports one’s boat, out of water, over a height of 60 feet – the only one of its kind still in use in North America!
Along the way there are villages, cities, and breathtaking scenery. I celebrated my 60th birthday on the Trans -Severn while in “Campbellford.” Here Ed saved a drowning pigeon, we had a romantic dinner on the Trent River, and I learned that when the word “ford” is used it means there was once a land bridge, a place where horses and people could cross the river. These shoals have been dredged and replaced by modern day bridges. My favorite stay though was on the downwall of Kirkfield’s lock 36, totally remote. I sent family at home a photo texting: “Where we slept last night – just us and the fireflies.” My clever brother Todd wrote back adding Sasquatch: “Are you sure you were alone?” he wrote. We all got a big laugh and then I wondered…
Indigenous people, in Canada referred to as “First Nations,” and fur-trading Europeans following animal trails roamed this area in the 17th Century, pulling their canoes over portages. Later saw mills, water power gave birth to larger villages and eventually cities. By the 1920s, dredging, canals, dams, and locks replacing waterfalls and rapids and let’s not forget purposeful flooding created a navigable system. Today this Trent – Severn Waterway is a world famous destination for recreational boaters.
Locks, locks, locks -Lock-a Rama- one after another, some double, some going up, some going down. The sun beating down so intensely that I started using an umbrella for shade. At the beginning of the lock journey, still bow-thrusterless, Ed and I were faltering.
A gentleman in front of us called out: “Why don’t you put your wife on the bow rather than mid-ship?” Ed and I followed direction and from there on out Finito swung to the wall perfectly. At lock 20 a water pump blew bringing Finito’s starboard engine to a halt. We knew there was no way we could navigate the remainder of the trip on one engine. Luckily our next stop was Peterborough, a large city. Within in a couple of days and the with direction of friends Finito was repaired.
Locks take time and I remain no expert on the waterways of the area but it is clear the altering of Nature’s wetlands and waters have had repercussions. Inside the locks algae and invasive zebra mussels coat the walls. Upon approach, submerged aquatic vegetation (SAV) is almost out of control in many areas.
Just like the Indian River Lagoon with all its problems, there remain many beautiful areas. Some lakes are clear and hold many bird species. In Lake Simone I saw at least 50 common loons! Eastern Kingbirds were prevalent in the gorgeous wild flower area along the canals. Turtles are a familiar sight, as are of course the Canada Geese, called “cobra-chickens” by the locals. The geese are so called for their aggressive manner and hissing with their tongues out when protecting their young. I admire this. They are survivors.
My favorite has been learning about the swans. So beautiful! Tundra swans that breed in Alaska and northern Canada are native -holding their necks straight while mute swans, the kind you see in Batman movies, gracefully curve their necks and were introduced from Europe. July 1st was Canada Day, and as the fireworks were blasting, I took a photograph of a pair of native tundra swans headed towards shore. We are seeing more and more swans of both types as we continue on the trip.
Today, Ed and I are in Orillia almost at the end of the Trent -Severn. These lands like all were once the historic home of Indigenous people who fished here in one of North America’s oldest human developments – the Mnjikanning Fish Weirs between Couchiching and Simcoe lakes. I look forward to learning more about these people and how glorious the lands, waters, and wildlife were during their era and how to do our best to return so today.
Today I get to enjoy these lands as a tourist. Ed and I are grateful for this. We are also grateful some of the new friends – that will become lifelong friends- we have met along the way and for Luna and Okee who are keeping us company on our journey. Get ready kids! Tomorrow, the Big Chute!
Oh how wonderful to “travel” with you both! We loved reading all about this beautiful part of our world. Thinking of you both and wishing you happy times and memories!
Thank you Janet! 🙂
I came across this going down a rabbit hole on the internet this morning before waking the kids for the day. It is so neat to hear someone’s perspective of the area I’ve lived in my entire life as they travel through and appreciate the beauty of it all. Seeing it daily, it becomes common place and you can easily forget what an amazing area you live in. I throughly enjoyed reading! And yes, our waterways and ecosystem definitely struggle with all of the man made alterations. Even between when I was growing up and now, there are so many new, significant issues they face. Side note: If you could see in behind the fireworks dust of your Canada Day photo, I’m sitting there with my children, enjoying the same show from the shoreline. Your craft is likely in the background of one of my photos from that evening! We live steps from Lock 19 and love watching everyone travel through and finding out their story and where they are from. It’s easy to forget how lucky you are to live where you do sometimes. Thank you for your perspective!
Thank you!
What a great trip for you and Ed! You’re creating a new chapter in your book of life. Mike Downing
Thanks! Yes a thick new chapter! 🙂
Fabulous trip and pictures. The trip of a lifetime I’m sure. My husband and I did this section of your trip in a houseboat about 20 years ago. It brings back fond memories. I love your posts and look forward to more! Stephanie Nankervis (IRP in the winter, friends of Geoff and Anne Norris)
Thank you for writing who you are Stephanie and I hope all is well with Geoff and Anne! I don’t know why Word Press has all anonymous these days. A houseboat would be perfect vessel for the trip and I have seen a few! I can imagine so many wonderful memories. I am so happy Ed and I will have some too.
Thank you for such lovely photos and for the history of this area. John and I never made it to this part of North America on Apria but we did go through almost 500 locks as we traversed Europe. Sometimes exhausting but there was always a story with each lock and village or town connected to the lock. You have brought this area alive for me! You are keeping our sailing days alive for us with each blog. Again, thank you!
Pricilla I am so grateful for your comment and I am speechless that you have done 500 or more locks! UGGGG! WOW! You and John have had such incredible adventures. Can’t wait to get together upon Ed and my return.
I love seeing the photos of your trip. Such an amazing trip. You guys are really incredible. Have safe travels and keep the comments and photos coming..
Dear Mark! Thank you for saying hello! We miss you very much! I think about Florida Oceanographic often when I see nothing like it where we have traveled in Canada so far.
What great photos and history! Thank you so much for the update. It does seem that it would be a slow go with that many locks, but you seem to be keeping pace and moving. Enjoy the trip and creating new memories together. All the best, Deb
Deb you are a gem to comment and encourage! I am a baby sometimes but Ed won’t let me stop! All the best to you and to everybody at Waterpoint!
Sounds great. I am still looking for the pic with gov Bob at the beach dedication on 83 or 4. My wife, bless her heart was trying to “fix” my albums and I cannot find anything. Take care and God Bless. Scott Potter.
Dear Scott I am sure that photo will surface! So frustrating! I know that feeling. Thank you for your blessing.
Fabulous!!!! Can hardly wait to read about the Chute!!!! I don’t mind this vicarious living one bit; I hang on every word!!! Thank you!!!
Patty you are wonderful! Like a cheerleader you are giving me strength and encouragement! Thank you. I am planning on writing about the Big Chute but am still recovering…
Dearest Jacqui,
I’m happy to hear that you and Ed have repaired or replaced the old engine and you didn’t have a long down time.
I can only imagine what beauty you have seen.
You’re a great historian and writer, and I impatiently wait for the next email telling
your stories and sharing your photos.
Give Ed my love.
Love to you Becky! Thank you and good luck with your campaign! I appreciate your comment and encouragement very much sister River Warrior. I even wore that pink RW shirt yesterday. Many inquired! 🙂
Beautiful area. I was lucky enough to work Canada “island to island”. (Victoria to Newfoundland). No black flies?
Dear Newton, Canada must have been so gorgeous to work in! You know yesterday I read there are about 40 million people in all Canada and there are 22 million at least just in Florida! More room for wildlife! Take care!
What an experience you are having!!! Not many people will ever have that! pp
Thank you. I have heard that about 280 boats finished the Great Loop last year. I think we will make it but sometimes I understand how people go home. Thanks for your comment pp!! 🙂
This is Brent. Lagoon is better than ever but need dump trucks of calcium for rainy season.
Brent is great to hear from you! I do believe you are right.
Be safe and enjoy making memories 🎈
Thank you Chris! I am so appreciative of your comments and support!
What an adventure. Again, thank you for sharing your words and photos.
You bet Lorraine! 🙂
Putting calcium carbonate shells ON THE SHORES will have a very positive effect. Acidification from the burning of fossil fuels is a national problem that we must face and not run away from leaving the next generation to inherit a toxic dump.
30 foot waves breaking in hurricane is spinning alkali metals in the earths magnetic field and producing electricity in water. This seporates the hydrogen from oxygen. Now free hydrogen is giv
ing lifting power to hurricane–hot water speeds up the reaction—hydogen peroxide is turning the sky blue—there is more.